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Why Grand Seiko? That’s probably the most common question we hear at Timeless. Grand Seiko is probably the single most disruptive brand in the entire luxury watch industry, and it seems like every watch collector has a strong opinion on the topic. We have an opinion on it too: we are obsessed with GS. In fact, we are so fascinated with the brand that we’ve written well over 20 articles about them, not including this one. We hang out on Seiko forums. We host parties with Grand Seiko where a master GS watchmaker assembles watches in front of an audience. We’re even building an independent website that will be the ultimate resource for Grand Seiko and will put all information about the brand, past and present, into one convenient place.
But that doesn’t really answer the question. Why Grand Seiko? To really appreciate why we, and a huge number of other watch collectors, love GS, I think you’ve got to consider at least a few separate factors: the history, the movements, and the craftsmanship.
The History
Grand Seiko is seen as something of a newcomer in the luxury watch world, having only entered the US a few years ago, and rising to fame in English speaking countries largely via internet forums. Yet nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, GS was just as controversial all the way back in 1960 as it is today.
Back then, despite their commitment to quality since Kintaro Hattori’s first shop in 1881, Seiko was not seen as a major player in the luxury watch market. They’d had their successes and awards, but they had yet to leave a permanent mark on the high-end watch industry. Seiko decided to have one of their major divisions, Suwa, produce a Grand Seiko. They meant that in a literal sense — the original model was to be the absolute best wristwatch they were capable of making at the time.
And so they did. The original model was merely called the Grand Seiko because, at the time, it was just a model — not a collection. The classic three hand, no date, manual wind watch made waves. It was truly a world class watch, but it was only a starting point. It wasn’t long before the Grand Seiko’s success warranted an expansion — it became two models, then three, then more. They added watches with dates, with automatic winding, with different frequencies — it was a complete collection on its own.
Seiko competed internationally by entering wristwatch movements into Neuchatel chronometer testing starting in 1964. The Neuchatel observatory not only rated watches but also gave their corresponding rank relative to other movements that were tested, making it possible to see who was making the most accurate pieces. It was in this arena that Grand Seiko would determine its success, and from 1964 until the end of the Neuchatel chronometer trials, GS would enter movements for competition.
The initial results were mediocre — there was a lot of room for improvement. By 1967, movements supplied by Seiko had moved from the 144th place into the top ten, thanks largely to their advancements in high-frequency calibres. The stage was set for Grand Seiko to finally take their first place finish in 1968 when the Neuchatel chronometer trials were abruptly abandoned. It is often speculated that this was to avoid declaring Seiko the winner of a Swiss chronometer competition. Regardless of the reason, Grand Seiko, as well as the other watchmakers, were undeterred, and simply went to the equivalent Geneva competition where they were once again competed.
This time, Seiko achieved its mission. Grand Seiko received 4th through 10th place, beaten only by a prototype quartz movement which took 1st through 3rd. This made Grand Seiko’s movements the most accurate mechanical wristwatch movements in the world. GS had proven that they could compete with anyone.
That’s just one of my favorite stories from Grand Seiko’s illustrious history, but there are many more. Suffice it to say that history, as well as tradition, plays a crucial part in understanding why GS is the phenomenon it is today.
The Movements
One of my favorite things about Grand Seikos is their accuracy. With the vast majority of watch brands out there, you’ve got a wide range of potential accuracy ratings and that’s true of Grand Seiko as well, but with one major difference — the worst Grand Seiko has a better rating than almost every other brand’s best. That’s very convenient, not merely for bragging rights, but because it means that the collector can buy any GS at random, without any knowledge of movements, and end up with a watch that’s extremely accurate. You literally can’t go wrong.
But although the specs are very impressive, there’s so much more to Grand Seiko’s movements than numbers on spreadsheets. Those are great in a sales brochure, but you need to understand the soul of GS, of Seiko generally, and to some degree perhaps even Japan, to adequately explain, “why Grand Seiko.”
More specifically, that nature is this unusual, yet elegant, combination of tradition and technology. No other luxury watch brand so seamlessly weaves watchmaking traditions that predate the entire company with next generation movements that literally no other company in the world can replicate. Grand Seiko is always staying true to their heritage while managing to advance the technology of movements at the same time.
No movement more eloquently expresses this philosophy than the spring drive. This revolutionary movement, now almost synonymous with Grand Seiko, manages to integrate the fine finishing and assembly of a mechanical GS from the 1960s with an exceedingly unique, high tech tri-synchro regulator. This allows them to fuse the old with the new, creating a movement that has no batteries at all, stores the entirety of its energy in a mainspring, and is almost completely mechanical, but with accuracy that exceeds most quartz watches. The spring drive allowed the watch collector to enjoy the beauty of a traditional watch with the accuracy of a high tech one. It’s an almost perfect mirror for the company.
On either side of the spring drive you’ll find supremely advanced quartz movements and remarkably refined mechanical ones. Most luxury brands also offer quartz movements these days, but extremely few of them actually even make those movements. They’re typically offered as an also-ran for those who don’t want to spend more money on a mechanical watch and they’re very rarely, if ever, a subject of pride.
For Grand Seiko, this is completely the opposite. Grand Seiko takes great pride in their quartz movements for mainly two reasons: their quartz movements are easily among the best ever made, and owing to their Seiko heritage, they are the father of quartz movements generally. Indeed, the same division that made the first production quartz watch makes Grand Seiko quartzes today, 46 years later. I could go into the fine details about what makes these movements (namely, the 9F) so great, but you can read our other articles for that — suffice it to say that the least accurate 9F is rated for 10 seconds per year, and the most accurate, 5 seconds per year — this, and a host of other technical improvements, mean that the quartz line of Grand Seikos is anything but an afterthought.
Finally, we have mechanical movements, GS’ oldest division. Grand Seiko movements are very thoughtfully and elegantly designed with an aim for simplicity, reliability, and accuracy. Today, the least accurate Grand Seiko movement is +5/-3 seconds, easily near the top of the mechanical watchmaking world, and some movements are even certified to +4/-2 seconds. The design of the movements themselves is very interesting because it demonstrates Seiko’s dualistic nature with regard to tradition and technology. You won’t find any silicon components in a Grand Seiko. GS stays true to their traditional materials, yet finds new and innovative ways to make those materials surpass even contemporary competition. For instance, the pallet fork and escape wheel are steel but are made using a MEMS manufacturing process that offers vastly superior precision. To reduce the weight of these parts, they are finely skeletonized.
The hairspring and mainspring are another great example. Seiko actually developed their own metallic alloys for this use, variations on what they call SPRON, which have enhanced properties over the competition. The material stayed basically the same, yet the way it is made was greatly improved by technology.
Another great tradition that is honored in their mechanical movement making is the legendary Hi-Beat, the mechanical movement most closely associated with Grand Seiko. GS was determined not to let it be just a nostalgic throwback, and set about making a Hi-Beat for the 21st century. Towards that end, they used special oil retaining grooves that reduced the increased wear associated with high frequency escapements, along with the many other advancements they had already made in their 9S5 and 9S6 lines of movements.
The Craftsmanship
The final aspect that’s crucial to understanding the love of Grand Seiko is the brand’s craftsmanship. Few brands have stayed quite as true to traditional watch polishing, assembly and adjustment as GS has. For instance, every part of a Grand Seiko is polished by master watchmakers using what is known in Japanese as the “zaratsu” technique. Indeed, to say that this is traditional is underselling it by quite a bit.
Historically, Japanese sword polishing was taken quite seriously. While most assume that the swordsmith would also be the one to polish a blade, this job was actually so specialized that the blade was usually given to a “togishi” who performed this task exclusively. Why does this matter? Well, zaratsu polishing is a technique derived from precisely that — the fine art of sword making. When you buy a Grand Seiko, every surface of the case was polished – by hand – using this technique.
Beyond the aesthetics of extremely fine finishing is the functionality of actually assembling a watch, which is also done entirely by master watchmakers. Those watches are then adjusted, not in the 5 positions required for the COSC, but in an additional 6th position, to best compensate for the effects of gravity. This is a feature of a few elite watchmakers, most notably, Jaeger-LeCoultre. The testing and adjustment of a Grand Seiko takes 17 days.
The reason Grand Seiko is so treasured, then, cannot be simplified into a bunch of impressively tight tolerances on a spreadsheet. Nor can it be reduced to a long list of technical achievements. No, if you really want to understand Grand Seiko, you must appreciate the human element that goes into every watch.
The Conclusion
I hope that gives a little insight into why we hold Grand Seiko in such high esteem. Of course we could go on for hours about any of these attributes or more, but hopefully these three examples help to explain why so many watch collectors, especially those of us at Timeless Luxury Watches, have a special place in our collection for Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko Watches at Timeless
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FAQs
It is unique to Grand Seiko, partly because no other brand has managed to achieve what they have done. The Spring Drive combines the best of quartz and mechanical into one. It generates energy like every other mechanical watch, but uses a quartz crystal to regulate the timing, creating a high level of precision.
Why is Grand Seiko special? ›
"Grand Seiko" is a luxury brand that offers timepieces made by master craftsmen in Seiko's two exclusive watchmaking studios, using exclusive movements and the highest grade materials. Each Grand Seiko watch is instantly recognizable because of its simplicity of form and its understated elegance.
Who is Grand Seiko target audience? ›
The target market for Grand Seiko is luxury watch enthusiasts, so if you fit into that category, getting yourself a Snowflake or some other model is an excellent choice.
Is it worth investing in Grand Seiko? ›
The human touch of its craftsmanship, the accurate high tech movements, and the beautiful history that you can still see in each wristwatch are some of the reasons why a Grand Seiko timepiece is worth considering as your next purchase.
Why is Grand Seiko cheaper than Rolex? ›
Indeed, the two brands are priced differently depending on their buyers' various value propositions. The Rolex vintage models have a higher demand compared to the Grand Seiko vintage models. This has caused the Rolex vintage models to have very high prices, both new and pre-owned, unlike their Japanese counterparts.
When did Grand Seiko become popular? ›
In 1968, our movement were awarded the overall prize as the best mechanical watches in the Geneva observatory competition and the world saw that the movements that would find their way into Grand Seiko were among the very best in the world.
Why is Grand Seiko more expensive than Seiko? ›
In some instances, both Seiko watch models are made from stainless steel. The difference is that the Grand Seiko watch is made from a higher-quality stainless steel material. In other cases (such as in the creation of custom pieces) higher-quality materials – such as titanium and platinum- are used.
What is the advantage of a Seiko watch? ›
Advantages and Applications
Seiko Watches are very durable and long-lasting. They have a great value for the price you pay. The quality of their watches is exceptional. Their customer service is outstanding.
Why does Grand Seiko cost so much? ›
Because it has the most accurate and technologically advanced mechanical watch movement. It contains the new caliber 9R01 Spring Drive with an eight-day power reserve and a whopping 56 jewels. The case material is a rare platinum 950, a blend containing 95% platinum.
What celebrity has a Grand Seiko? ›
Haute Living celebrated actor, singer, and Golden Globe nominee Matthew Broderick on June 13 at Zero Bond in New York City in partnership with luxury timepiece brand Grand Seiko.
In 1984, photographer Norman Seeff took a picture of Steve Jobs in his home with a Macintosh in his lap and a Seiko Chariot series watch on his wrist that would go on to become one of the most iconic images of Jobs ever taken.
Why is Seiko respected? ›
Japan is well-known for advances in technology, and Seiko has been at the forefront of this for watchmaking. With Seiko's advances in watch technology, the Diashock in 1956 and the “Magic Lever” in 1959 Seiko watches made their mark as chronological masterpieces in the mod 20th century.
Is Grand Seiko high quality? ›
Grand Seiko is a high-end line of luxury watches produced by the renowned Japanese watch manufacturer, Seiko. Known for their exceptional quality, precision, and craftsmanship, Grand Seiko watches have steadily gained international recognition and respect in the luxury watch market.
Which is better Seiko or Rolex? ›
Rolex may be king, but Grand Seiko is holding court. In today's watch landscape Rolex is king. In terms of both sales and the cultural zeitgeist, no brand comes close.
How many Grand Seikos are made a year? ›
With an annual production of 35,000 Grand Seiko watches (close to the likes of Audemars Piguet's total production, for example), most of the watches stay in Asia. The pre-owned market for Grand Seiko watches is relatively small, especially outside Asia.
What is the most expensive Grand Seiko? ›
The most expensive Grand Seiko watch is the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, which sold for $478,000, the highest price ever for a Grand Seiko sold at auction. The watch was also awarded the Chronometry Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève for its high-precision timekeeping abilities.
Which is better Seiko or Citizen? ›
If you don't mind quartz watches and the extra accuracy the tech brings, Citizen watches might be your best bet. Alternatively, if you prefer the tradition of mechanical watches, with a cost-friendly price, then Seiko watches should be your choice! Either way, it'll be a win.
Who owns Grand Seiko? ›
Seiko
| Seiko's Wako store in Ginza serves as the company's registered office |
|---|
| Founded | 1881 in Chūō, Tokyo, Japan |
| Founder | Kintarō Hattori |
| Headquarters | Ginza, Chūō, Tokyo, Japan |
| Key people | Shinji Hattori (Chmn., CEO) Yoshinobu Nakamura (Pres.) |
17 more rowsBut at the end of it all, Seiko is more focused on exquisite, complicated dress watches, and its range has always included some gorgeous ones and Haute Horlogerie pieces, such as the SARB065, SARB066, and Presage SSA343J1, whereas Tissot has a much sharper eye for high-end sports watches.
What country is Grand Seiko made in? ›
Two locations in Japan, two studios and three movements
The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is located in the mountainous area of Iwate prefecture in Northern Japan while the Shinshu Watch Studio is surrounded by the beautiful mountains and lakes of Shinshu in the center of the country.
Quality: Even the lowest-tier Seikos are well-made and will typically outperform their price-point counterparts from other brands. In-House Movement: From bottom to top, Seiko manufactures all of its movements itself.
Will Seiko increase in value? ›
Whether or not Seiko timepieces offer an excellent return on investment, the short answer is yes, they do. Listed below are a few watches from this watchmaker with significantly higher resale value than their original retail price.
What steel does Grand Seiko use? ›
The vast majority of Grand Seiko watches are made of 316L stainless steel, which is generally regarded as the industry standard. 316L is known for its low carbon content (in fact, that's what the “L” denotes), anti-magnetic properties, and its excellent resistance against corrosion.
Which is better Bulova or Seiko? ›
Seiko provides traditional, stylish, functional, and innovative timepieces that all come from its revolutionary mindset. Bulova has unique and loud designs, and the brand stands out for its style and accuracy. However, Seiko's sleek and classy design earns more respect than any other in the competitive market.
Is Seiko similar to Rolex? ›
The Seiko SARB035 is a superb alternative variant for the Rolex Datejust. It's a premium timepiece with a better price tag, and has the very features found on the Rolex, like the case's shoulders, the beveled edges, the finishing, boxy shape, and the polished bezel.
How many years will a Seiko watch last? ›
How Long Will a Seiko 5 Last? A Seiko 5 watch can last anywhere from five years to over 25 years. The wide range is due to a variety of wildcards. For example, dust build-up can eventually cause a break in an old Seiko 5's 7S26B movement.
What is the markup on Grand Seiko? ›
Grand Seiko has the lowest markup: 13 percent on average. Bulova is the highest, with a 44 percent average dealer markup.
How durable is Grand Seiko? ›
The hairspring in a mechanical Grand Seiko watch is resistant to roughly 10,000 A/m, or 125 gauss, higher than that of a strong kitchen magnet (though you still should not bring one close to your watch).
Where does Seiko rank? ›
This year Grand Seiko has secured its place in the top 10 brands across all men's price bands above $2,000. According to retail analyst NPD, its watches are now ranked number three in the $5,000 to $7,000 price range, up from number six last year.
What watch did Steve Jobs wear? ›
What Kind of Watches Was in Steve Jobs's Watch Collection? Despite his immense wealth, Steve Jobs was known for his minimalist sense of style, and many of his watches reflect that, including his Seiko Quartz that he was famously photographed wearing in 1984.
The eight-pointed star, when present on the dial, signals it is a “Special Dial” that utilises precious materials/metals for the dial plate, hands, and/or markers. (As an example, SBGZ003 has 14k white gold hands and markers as indicated by the star present on the dial).
What grade titanium is Grand Seiko? ›
Grand Seiko Snowflake – A True Icon
The dial evokes the image of freshly fallen snow. The watch first debuted in Japan in 2005 and made its international debut in 2010. This watch boasts the 9R65 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve, date feature, and a high intensity grade 5 titanium case.
What watch does Elon Musk wear? ›
Elon Musk Watch - Richard Mille 029
This is why the RM 029 design with an oversized date comes as no surprise to those who are fans of his genius. This modern timepiece has a curved 48 x 39 mm case made of titanium with screw slot steel parts.
What watch does Bill Gates wear? ›
But alas, a Gates is a simple, practical guy who likes functional watches. As such, it is no surprise to see him wearing almost exclusively Casio watches. The watch he is seen wearing the most is an extremely popular dive watch from Casio – the Casio MDV106-1AV Duro.
What watch did Tom Cruise wear? ›
In the recent movie Top Gun: Maverick, Captain Pete "Maverick" Mitchell, played by Tom Cruise, was spotted wearing the new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 inspired by the all-black 1972 watch. The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 was the first watch with a black PVD coating, originally launched in 1972.
What do watch people think of Seiko? ›
Watch enthusiasts generally have a high opinion of Seiko as a brand, especially with their line of high-quality, affordable mechanical watches.
What is the motto of Seiko watch? ›
“Always one step ahead of the rest”. This was Kintaro Hattori's credo for the company he founded in 1881.It has guided Seiko ever since, through more than a century of innovation. This principle, as well as the desire to appeal to customers' emotions, have been incorporated into our Group slogan.
Why is Seiko so collectible? ›
Today, old Seiko watches are highly sought-after by collectors due to their quality craftsmanship and unique design. Depending on the model and condition, an old Seiko watch can be worth anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. What is this?
How often should a Grand Seiko be serviced? ›
Your Grand Seiko watch performs best when worn for at least 10 hours a day. - We recommend that you have your watch checked and overhauled periodically. - Optimally, this should be done every three to four years.
What is the most rare King Seiko? ›
The King Seiko 5246-6060 here was made in 1973, and for one year only. It uses a 5200 series Seiko movement made in the Dianni factory in Japan. These movements were made to such a high level with a keen focus on fine regulation (hence most have a regulating screw outside the casing).
However, Seiko is known for its strict quality control standards, regardless of where the watch is produced. So, while not all Seiko watches are made in Japan, they are all held to the same high standards of quality and craftsmanship that the brand is known for.
What watches are better than Rolex? ›
- Omega Watches. Shop Omega Watches. Omega is a brand that gets compared to Rolex most frequently – and for good reason. ...
- Panerai. Shop Panerai Watches. ...
- Oris. Shop Oris Watches. ...
- Breitling. Shop Breitling Watches. ...
- Audemars Piguet. Shop Audemars Piguet Watches. ...
- Longines. Shop Longines Watches. ...
- Patek Philippe. Shop Patek Philippe Watches.
18k yellow gold is used for this case, just as it was on the very first Grand Seiko. Its soft feel and sharply sculpted form show its heritage and the embossed Grand Seiko name is presented in a three-dimensional form that also reflects the original.
Does Grand Seiko have gold? ›
The pure, understated and subtle design aesthetic of Grand Seiko is evident in every detail, as is the skill and care taken by the watchmakers at the Shinshu Watch Studio where the watch is made. The 18K yellow gold case is polished by a special Zaratsu method created to accentuate the beauty of the curved surfaces.
Is Seiko as good as Omega? ›
In conclusion, both the Omega and Grand Seiko brands are of very high quality. Omega has a distinct edge because of its long history and the reputation it has built during that time.
What is the most respectable watch brand? ›
Here are the top picks:
- Best Watch Brands Overall: Omega, Rolex, Tag Heuer.
- Best Affordable Watch Brands: Swatch, Timex, Citizen.
- Best Expensive Watch Brands: Patek Philippe, Cartier.
- Best Smartwatch Brands: Samsung, Apple.
- Best Watch Brands For Men: Panerai, Shinola, Seiko.
- Best Watch Brands For Women: Hermès, Breda.
Most Expensive Watch Brands
- Blancpain. ...
- A. ...
- Jaeger LeCoultre. ...
- Piaget. ...
- Louis Moinet. ...
- Breguet. ...
- Vacheron Constantin. ...
- Patek Philippe. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe reigns as the most expensive watch brand in the world.
In some instances, both Seiko watch models are made from stainless steel. The difference is that the Grand Seiko watch is made from a higher-quality stainless steel material. In other cases (such as in the creation of custom pieces) higher-quality materials – such as titanium and platinum- are used.
Why Grand Seiko is so expensive? ›
Because it has the most accurate and technologically advanced mechanical watch movement. It contains the new caliber 9R01 Spring Drive with an eight-day power reserve and a whopping 56 jewels. The case material is a rare platinum 950, a blend containing 95% platinum.
What do watch enthusiasts think of Seiko? ›
Watch enthusiasts generally have a high opinion of Seiko as a brand, especially with their line of high-quality, affordable mechanical watches.
Reliability of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive
Because the movement is accurate to +/- 1 second per day, it is more accurate and precise than the best Chronometers and COSC certified watches.
Is Grand Seiko better than IWC? ›
They are also better made than most IWC and JLC watches. Grand Seiko are directly comparable to the steel watches made Audemars Piguet, Patek Phillipe and Vacheron Constantin. ALL steel luxury watches (including Vacheron, Patek and Audemars) are mass produced. They only take a few hours to make.
How many watches does Grand Seiko make a year? ›
In a category filled with brands that make hundreds of thousands of watches per year, Grand Seiko is an outlier, with an annual production around 45,000 watches.
What is the entry level for a Grand Seiko? ›
At $2,200, the SBGX is a perfect entry point into Grand Seiko.
Is Seiko better than citizen? ›
If you don't mind quartz watches and the extra accuracy the tech brings, Citizen watches might be your best bet. Alternatively, if you prefer the tradition of mechanical watches, with a cost-friendly price, then Seiko watches should be your choice! Either way, it'll be a win.
What is the best movement of Grand Seiko? ›
Of course, the 9R31 manual wound movement is Grand Seiko's renowned Spring drive movement, which gives the wearer 72 hours of power reserve and ± 15 seconds per month, which is amazing in terms of watch accuracy. It also has 100 m of water resistance, which most dress watches don't even come close to.
