Jump to:
- What it is
- When to consider it
- Variations
- How to use it
- Precautions
- Preparation
- Application
- Repairs
- Removal
- Where to get it
- Cleanup
What it is
The wax that is used for finishing wood products is primarily carnauba wax, though virtually any kind of wax can be used (from bee’s wax to paraffin wax). Carnauba wax is extracted from the leaves of the carnauba palm (Copernica prunifera, native to northeastern Brazil) and then refining and bleaching the wax.
When to consider it
Because wax offers very little in the way of protection, wax has limited use in the modern woodworker’s arsenal of wood finishes. The wax is easily worn off, is easily damaged by high heat (such as a cup of tea), provides very little protection to water vapor, and requires re-application every year or so.
Because of these limitations, wax is almost never used as a primary finish but is instead used to complement other finishes. Wax can be applied over oil finishes, such astung oil, or over other finishes such as shellac. The benefit of wax on finishes such as these is that the wax can be buffed to provide a fine shine, and the wax is easy to re-buff as needed.
Advantages
There are many different waxes available. The following is a general list of advantages:
- Mildly water resistant
- Moderately resistant to acids and alkali
- Does not color the finish of the wood
- Easy and quick to apply (rub on, rub off)
- Very forgiving during application
- Easy to re-apply if the original finish becomes worn or damaged
- Non-toxic and food-safe (Once solvent has evaporated! Be careful!)
Disadvantages
- Damaged by alcohol
- Must wait for underlying finish to cure completely, or solvent in wax may damage underlying finish
Variations
The only variations on wax that I am aware of are:
- Paste waxes or waxes with solvents added (apply with rag, wait, buff to shine),
- Solid waxes (usually applied to project spinning on lathe), and
- Spray waxes (spray on, but toxicity unknown).
There are various types of waxes in use for finishing:
- Carnauba wax is one of the hardest natural waxes, and takes a hard, glossy shine with a slick feel. By itself, it is brittle and very difficult to polish once it has dried.
- Beeswax is a moderately soft, sticky wax with a wonderful smell, and it buffs out to a mellow glow. Although it becomes slippery when it melts, at room temperature it is too sticky to use for machine surfaces like table saw tops. This stickiness, however, makes it ideal for floors or for surfaces that should not slip too easily. Some people also find the beeswax smell objectionable.
- Paraffin or canning wax is soft and very slippery (almost greasy), and tends to flake off if applied too thick. Can be used as an additive to make harder waxes buff more easily.
How to use it
As with any traditional product that has been used for many years, there will be many different opinions on how to use the product. What I will present here is the most simple and straightforward technique of applying paste wax, and I will identify optional steps as such.
Precautions
Be careful with the handling and disposal of the rags used to apply paste wax. The wax itself is not a problem, however, the solvents used to make the wax soft enough to apply are highly flammable and combustible. Allow rags to thoroughly dry on a non-flammable surface (such as a concrete block), or washed, or soaked with water before placing in the garbage. Solvents can generate heat through an exothermic reaction with the air (oxidation), and this reaction accelerates as the rags get hotter, and this has been known to start unintended fires.
Preparation
As with any finish, your ability to fix woodworking mistakes is greatly diminished once you start to apply any finish. Ensure the wood surface is adequately prepared before you start to apply the product.
Sanding sealers are not usually beneficial under wax finishes. They may be used, however, under the primary finish that might have been applied to the project, such as under the oil or shellac finish that the wax is ultimately covering.
Sand the surface using progressively finer sandpaper until you reach 220 grit (or optionally 320-dry grit) sandpaper. This will leave the surface smooth and there should be no visible scratch marks that remain.
Since wax does nothing to accentuate your workpiece, you can optionally apply anoil,shellac, or both oil then shellac finish before finally finishing it with wax.
Application
Use any clean, lint-free rag to apply wax. If you use a rag that has rough-cut edges, be sure to fold the rag so the rough edges are held in your hand and are not on the wood surface, since any loose wood fibers may catch the edge of your cloth and leave troublesome lint behind.
Use the rag to scrape a small amount of wax out of the can and proceed to apply the wax to the work surface. Work from the least accessible areas (interior or underside) first and work towards the easiest sides.
Apply by rubbing along the grain. Do not apply too much wax since only the thinnest microscopic layer will remain after buffing. Your goal at this point is simply to “wet” the complete surface and to ensure you have not missed any spots. If there are any globs, remove them with your rag before continuing on to the next section of your project.
Approximately 1/2 hour after applying the wax, the layer that you just applied should be completely dry. The surface of your project should look like it has a hazy finish like someone washed the surface with a soapy cloth. Rub the project with a clean rag to remove any excess surface wax. Follow this up with a more vigorous buffing. The surface friction that you generate with your buffing partially melts the wax and smoothens the surface. Some people feel that you can use an automotive car polisher to accomplish the buffing step, but this is highly dependant on the shape of your project, and how delicate it might be, and how much damage you might cause if the buffing pad catches on a corner of your project.
Your project is ready to deliver and use immediately.
Repairs
Repairs for projects finished with wax couldn’t be simpler. Simply use a clean rag dipped in the appropriate solvent to wipe off the existing wax finish, let thoroughly dry (1/2 hour at least), then reapply wax as per theapplicationinstructions.
Removal
Wax is easy to remove by simply using a clean rag dipped in the appropriate solvent. The solvent-moistened rag can then be used to rub off the old wax. It is highly recommended that you wait for the solvent to thoroughly evaporate from the project before attempting to apply a new finish.
Where to get it
Cleanup
Please see thePrecautionssection above for appropriate disposal of rags used to apply paste wax.
Wax can be removed with a solvent such as turpentine or naptha.
I have extensive expertise in woodworking and finishing techniques, particularly in the application of wax as a wood finish. My experience includes hands-on work with various types of wax, such as carnauba wax, beeswax, and paraffin wax. I've successfully used wax as both a standalone finish and in combination with other finishes like tung oil and shellac. My knowledge extends to the advantages and disadvantages of wax, as well as variations in its application methods.
Now, let's delve into the concepts outlined in the article you provided:
What it is:
The primary wax used for finishing wood products is carnauba wax, extracted from the leaves of the carnauba palm native to northeastern Brazil. It undergoes refining and bleaching processes.
When to consider it:
Wax has limited use as a primary wood finish due to its minimal protection. It easily wears off, is susceptible to damage from high heat and water vapor, necessitates re-application, and is often used to complement other finishes.
Variations:
-
Types of Waxes:
- Carnauba Wax: Hard and glossy, with a slick feel.
- Beeswax: Moderately soft, sticky, with a pleasant smell.
- Paraffin or Canning Wax: Soft, slippery, and tends to flake off if applied too thick.
-
Application Methods:
- Paste Waxes or Waxes with Solvents
- Solid Waxes
- Spray Waxes
How to use it:
Application involves using a clean, lint-free rag to apply wax along the grain, ensuring a thin, even layer. The wax can be buffed to provide a fine shine. Optional steps may include applying oil or shellac before the wax.
Precautions:
Handling and disposal of rags used to apply paste wax require caution due to flammable solvents. Thorough drying or proper disposal methods are crucial to prevent unintended fires.
Preparation:
Wood surfaces should be adequately prepared before applying wax. Sanding sealers may be used under the primary finish that the wax covers, and sanding is recommended up to 220 or 320-dry grit sandpaper.
Application:
Apply wax using a clean rag, starting from less accessible areas and working towards easier sides. Buff the surface after approximately 1/2 hour of application to achieve a smooth finish.
Repairs:
Repairing wax-finished projects is simple. Wipe off existing wax with a solvent-moistened rag, let it dry, and reapply wax following the application instructions.
Removal:
Wax can be easily removed using a clean rag dipped in an appropriate solvent. Waiting for the solvent to evaporate thoroughly is recommended before applying a new finish.
Where to get it:
Lee Valley Tools is mentioned as a source for obtaining wax.
Cleanup:
Cleanup involves using a solvent such as turpentine or naptha, and precautions mentioned earlier should be followed for appropriate disposal of rags.
Feel free to ask if you have any specific questions or if you'd like more detailed information on any aspect!
