There’s no doubt that Rolex is as popular as ever, and Tudor seems to be profiting from the brand with the crown’s current lack of availability. More and more watch enthusiasts are taking a closer look at Tudor for reasons that go beyond the brand’s proximity to Rolex. Let’s dig in and compare the two brands: What are the differences in terms of brand image, design, and quality? Which models are most popular, and do they hold their value well? Does Tudor have the potential to achieve the same status as its big brother Rolex one day, or will it always be a consolation prize for those who can’t get their hands on a Rolex?
Is Tudor a true alternative to Rolex?
Rolex vs. Tudor: Brand Perception
The reputation of these two brands couldn’t be further apart. Rolex has managed to imbue their timepieces with a certain status from the very beginning, making them highly sought-after to this day. Rolexes are worn by groundbreaking and record-breaking individuals. Thanks to its role in early James Bond films, a large audience learned about the Rolex Submariner. Countless actors, artists, and politicians have sported models like the Rolex Datejust or Rolex Day-Date on their wrists.
Despite several changes in its brand image over the years, Tudor has consistently positioned itself very differently from Rolex. The manufacturer doesn’t just showcase celebrities or prominent individuals but rather hard-working individuals who appreciate a precise timepiece. Since its founding in 1926, Tudor has offered a more affordable alternative to Rolex, a groundbreaking and ingenious idea of Hans Wilsdorf. Watches like the Tudor Submariner were almost identical to their Rolex counterparts, some even using the same parts, but could be sold at much lower prices thanks to the use of ébauche movements from ETA.
Unfortunately, the proximity to Rolex also brought Tudor a reputation as a “wannabe Rolex.” Over the years, Tudor fans started to desire a bit more independence. After several failed attempts, this was finally achieved with the release of the Black Bay in 2012. With this model, Tudor finally found its style, and the diver became an instant success. Today, the Tudor brand image is independent, cool, and a bit on the wild side. Brand ambassadors like David Beckham and Lady Gaga appeal to a younger audience, and the vintage charm and quality of the timepieces win the hearts of experienced collectors.
On the other hand, Rolex has always been a status symbol and synonymous with success. Their brand ambassadors are among the best in their sports or art forms. No other luxury watch manufacturer manages to simultaneously be present at so many high-end, prestigious events and so relevant in modern, urban culture.
Even tool watches like the current Submariner emanate pure luxury.
Rolex vs. Tudor: Design and Quality
At first glance, they may look similar, but the design languages of these two brands are extremely different. Rolex watches are timeless icons that have remained consistent for decades. Any modifications are done with the utmost care. Current references are contemporary versions of the original models transported through time. Tudor, on the other hand, takes a different approach. These watches are primarily homages and reinterpretations of the brand’s earlier models. Even watches with modern designs, such as the Tudor Pelagos, have a vintage flair. The brand has a long history that is clearly visible in its retro design elements like riveted bracelets, textured dials, tan lume, and aluminum bezels. The chamfered case design, engraved rose, and use of particular fonts are also nods to Tudor’s history.
In terms of quality, Rolex is unrivaled, in my opinion. Their cases and straps are extremely solid, and the haptics are second to none. Every tiny detail is simply perfect. Tudor watches are likewise high quality; when it comes to general, overall quality, they are in no way inferior to Rolex, and they feel great. Plus, enthusiasts can now celebrate the introduction of more and more in-house Tudor movements. However, all of that being said, they do not attain the same level of perfection achieved by their grander sibling. The dials aren’t quite as smooth, the finishing is simpler, and the bracelets and clasps typically have fewer features – the Tudor Pelagos being an exception to this rule.
Timeless design, exquisite quality: Rolex offers pure perfection.
Rolex vs. Tudor: Models
A unique feature of many Rolexes is their high recognition value. Icons like the Submariner or Datejust are known even to people who aren’t that interested in watches. Hardly any other brand can hold a candle to Rolex in this respect, so we might as well just focus on Tudor.
While even the most “unpopular” Rolex models are enjoying ever-increasing demand, interest in Tudor seems to be dominated by the Black Bay collection. The brand’s flagship series has expanded to include new variants every year. The Tudor Black Bay GMT, Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and the latest version of the Tudor Black Bay Chrono are the most popular among fans.
Other Tudor models outside the Black Bay collection seem almost irrelevant in comparison. Interesting watches like the Tudor Style, Tudor 1926, Tudor Advisor, and Tudor Heritage Chronograph lead almost shadow existences! However, I personally believe that Tudor has recognized this and is working to offer collectors more in the future. Steps in the right direction include the 2020 release of the Tudor Royal and the recent release of the Tudor Pelagos FXD, a new dateless version of the great Pelagos model. In my opinion, this latter watch doesn’t get the attention it deserves from collectors. Tudor will undoubtedly have a few more tricks up their proverbial sleeve in the coming years, but the Black Bay will likely remain the cornerstone of their portfolio.
Its own watch through and through: the Tudor Black Bay GMT
Rolex vs. Tudor: Financial Performance
It almost goes without saying that no other brand compares to Rolex in terms of value retention. Above all, the steel sports icons like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona are unbeatable when it comes to performance. On the open market, they often cost twice, if not three times, their original list prices. It may sound crazy, but I don’t expect anything to change in the next few years.
Tudor watches have also caused an occasional stir with their performance – but on a much smaller scale. Compared to Rolex, there are only a few popular models, and these trade just over their list prices. These include the Tudor Black Bay GMT, Black Bay 58, and the current Black Bay Chrono. I don’t foresee market prices climbing anywhere close to Rolex levels in Tudor’s future. Nevertheless, I would generally say that Tudor is a brand with good value retention, at least if you stick to the Black Bay line. Even the standard Black Bay is popular enough that you don’t have to worry about shouldering a significant loss if you want to resell it. I see the potential for higher market prices going forward for the more sought-after models, especially if any of them are discontinued. After all, Tudor already performs very well in the vintage market. Looking at prices for older Tudor Submariners, you will be amazed; they aren’t any lower than their Rolex counterparts. When you consider that these watches use ETA movements, that’s pretty impressive.
There are few brands that compare to Rolex when it comes to performance.
Can Tudor become the new Rolex?
This side-by-side highlights that we are dealing with two very different brands here. The biggest differences are in the brand images and design languages. When it comes to quality, however, the proximity of the brands becomes more apparent. Tudor certainly benefits from Rolex’s expertise and, thus, offers admirable quality even if it doesn’t quite match Rolex’s level of perfection. While Rolex has a consistently broad portfolio of popular models, Tudor’s desirability is limited to a few key models. So, no, I don’t think Tudor will ever achieve status on par with Rolex. However, Tudor does have some things going for it. Above all, it still lives up to Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating a cheaper alternative to Rolex. It’s an alternative that appeals to seasoned watch lovers and novices alike, and it just keeps getting better and better. Today, Tudor offers an independent, cool, and bold alternative to the brand with the crown and is far from a consolation prize.
