Image credit: LemLem
Usually, posts like these have affiliate links, which pay me a portion of sales made off of traffic that EcoCult sends to retailers. For this one, however, I am linking straight to brand websites even if they are carried in department stores so that the brands keep the full markup for themselves.
With Black History Month underway, it’s a great opportunity to acknowledge, commemorate and celebrate the hard work and achievements made by Black people in the fashion industry. So we’re refreshing and bringing our guide to Black-owned American fashion brands back to the top.
Obviously, the support and celebration of diversity should go beyond the month of February — and beyond a short-lived reaction to protests. Amid 2020’s high-profile deaths of Black Americans due to police brutality, and activism to dismantle institutional racism and increase inclusivity, the fashion world pledged it would change. The lack of diversity has not only ranged from people featured on runways, magazine covers, and ad campaigns but also inside retailers and throughout the workplace.
Almost a year later, the New York Times reached out to 64 brands, 15 major department stores and online sellers, and nine glossy magazines to ask about their diversity numbers. The newspaper concluded that Black representation is still incredibly small in the power structure of established brands, retail establishments and magazines. Two years on, of the retailers surveyed, two had joined the 15 Percent Pledge, a US-based non-profit asking businesses to dedicate 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned brands. And of the magazines, only Vogue and InStyle signed the pledge “committing to commission at least 15 percent Black talent, including photographers and writers.”
But there has been some progress. The Fashion Spot revealed that the Spring 2022 fashion shows were “now the most racially diverse season on record,” jumping five percentage points, from 43 percent in Fall 2021 to 48 percent in Spring 2022.
We also reconnected with celebrity stylist Dechel McKillian and founder of the store Galerie LA to discuss if, after the summer 2020 “buy Black boom,” the support for Black designers and Black-owned brands has led to sustained change. In the midst of the Black Lives Matter movement, Galerie LA, which she founded to foster a community of conscious consumers by carrying brands that truly have a positive impact in their community and the planet, had received an outpouring of support, with an influx of sales and thousands of new followers on Instagram. Although sales today don’t necessarily match that high point, McKillian has seen an increase in press features, which has helped with greater visibility and relationship-building with editors. But she mentions inclusivity in the industry is still not where it needs to be.
“Many retailers are now carrying more brands founded by women of color because people are voicing their opinions through their platforms,” McKillian says. “Although it has gotten better since I started back in 2014, there is still a lot of work to do… There’s need to be more Black hires in the fashion industry as creatives, marketing directors, and designers.”
McKillian tells me collective action is what’s calling these days. “Allies need to continue to educate themselves along with donating and supporting businesses,” she says. “As humans, we need to recognize each other as humans. People behind the sewing machine are typically women of color,” she emphasizes.
If supporting Black fashion entrepreneurs sounds like something you would like to be a part of (yes, obviously!), here’s our roundup of Black-owned American ethical and sustainable fashion businesses for you to support now, and forever.
Autumn Adeigbo
After watching her Nigerian mother sew her clothes growing up and working for illustrious names like Betsy Johnson and stylist Andrea Lieberman of A.L.C., Autumn Adeigbo created her namesake label of joyful, vibrant styles. The made-to-order, global brand ethically sources its materials from all over the world, including Indian fabrics and West African beading, and has it sewn into its tailored silhouettes in New York City.
Hope For Flowers
Iconic fashion designer Tracy Reese founded Hope For Flowers in 2019 to create sustainable, feminine, and minimal designs. Her clothes are made of sustainable textiles, such as organic cotton, linen, Tencel, and cupro. Tracy Reese’s conventional designs have been worn by Sarah Jessica Parker, Meghan Markle, Oprah, and even the former First Lady Michelle Obama.
Valerie Madison
Valerie Madison founded her namesake fine jewelry brand in 2014. The Seattle-based designer creates timeless, elegant styles honoring her Environmental Science degree by responsibly sourcing her materials. Her collections are made with recycled gold, diamond alternatives like sapphires and when possible Canadian-mined or recycled diamonds.
Ashya
Established in New York in 2017 by co-founders Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece, Ashya designs unisex travel accessories for the modern-day explorer. In efforts to minimize waste throughout the production process, the brand responsibly sources materials, upcycles fabric scraps, and produces in small batches.
Taylor Jay
Taylor Jay is an Oakland-based and fair made clothing line designing high-quality, eco-friendly elevated basics. It ethically sources recycled and upcycled threads to create its environmentally-friendly garments.
Arrow + Phoenix
Established in 2012, Arrow + Phoenix is a 90’s influenced sustainable swimwear line based in Los Angeles. It focuses on diversity and size inclusivity with bra cups ranging from A-H. The brand’s designs are made out of ECONYL, an Italian eco-luxe fiber made from regenerated nylon.
Aliya Wanek
Aliya Wanek is a speech therapist by day and a womenswear designer by night. She founded her Oakland based eponymous label in 2016 and creates timeless, comfortable clothing from natural fibers. Each piece by Aliya Wanek is hand-dyed in the Bay Area and has a mix of the American classic with Japanese aesthetics.
GOODEE
Certified B Corp GOODEE is a curated marketplace offering apparel, homeware and accessories. Founders Byron and Dexter Peart are on a mission to reduce poverty, help marginalized communities and advocate for gender equality by supporting traditional artisans and small brands around the world.
Gracemade
Faith-driven Gracemade creates timeless and modest designs in Los Angeles from deadstock and natural materials.
Galerie LA
Founded by Celebrity Stylist Dechel McKillian, Galerie LA thoughtfully curates ethical and eco-friendly women’s clothing and accessories from emerging brands worldwide.
Jade Swim
Jade Swim is a sustainable swimwear line using both deadstock fibers and ECONYL, regenerated nylon from plastic waste such as fishnets taken out of the ocean and remade into new nylon fabric. Inspired by New York City and made in Los Angeles, the brand combines both minimal and sensual aesthetics that can easily transition into ready-to-wear.
CanDid Art
Inspired by African culture, indigenous designs, and cosmic geometry, Candice Cox established her Oakland-based artisanal jewelry and home decor line in 2011. Each piece is handcrafted utilizing various chains, an assortment of metals, semi-precious stones, and recycled materials.
House of Aama
Founded by a mother-and-daughter duo, Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka create made-to-order clothing. Known for its statement pieces, the fashion brand is heavily rooted in African ethos merging personal history and spirituality. Since 2013 the duo had been upcycling vintage clothing, which led them to release their first capsule collection in 2014.
Kind Socks
Out of disappointment for not being able to find both sustainable and fashionable socks, Stephen Steele founded Kind Socks in 2017. The brand creates colorful and fun designs out of responsibly sourced organic cotton.
Kpelle
Inspired by Liberian culture, Delaware-based Gwanyan Barker founded Kpelle as a way to celebrate her African lineage and culture by designing handmade gold, brass, and silver jewelry. The designer locally sources her supplies to create her handmade designs.
Aziza
Aziza is a made-to-order jewelry brand designed by founder and artist Aziza Nicole out of her studio. It draws inspiration from Aziza’s multi-layered cultural heritage creating everything from cuffs to cuticle rings. The designer has been making one-of-a-kind creations since childhood, thanks to her mother encouraging her to explore her talents.
Printed Pattern People
Shade Akanbi established her ethical textile label, Printed Pattern People, in Brooklyn in 2014, translating traditional ethnic materials into modern reinterpretations for everyday wear. The brand mixes its bohemian Brooklyn vibe with rich colorful textiles, prints, patterns, and textures inspired by the founder’s travels.
The Narativ
Founded by Farai Simoyi of Netflix’s “Next In Fashion,” The Narativ curates sustainable, ethical artisan brands from around the world with the goal of sharing their narratives and promoting traditional craftsmanship.
Cee Cee’s Closet
Cee Cee’s Closet NYC was created by Chioma and Uchenna Ngwudo in New York City, who celebrate the beauty of West African prints through their unique headwraps, accessories, and clothing. Everything is designed by them in New York and handmade by artisans in Nigeria.
Studio 189
Studio 189, co-founded by Ghanian-American Abrima Erwiah and actress Rosario Dawson, is a fashion lifestyle brand and social enterprise. Headquartered in Ghana and the U.S., with stores in NYC and Accra, they work with artisanal communities that specialize in various traditional craftsmanship techniques including natural plant-based dye indigo, hand-batik, kente weaving, and more.
Brother Vellies
Brother Vellies was founded in 2013 by Canadian and fashion professional Aurora James with the goal of keeping traditional African design practices and techniques alive while creating and sustaining artisanal jobs. Originally focused on South African vellies made of Springbok leather, the collection is now produced across the globe in South Africa, Kenya, Mexico, Morocco, Ethiopia, Burkina Faso, Italy, Haiti and New York City.
Lemlem
By partnering with artisan studios that use traditional African motifs and techniques to create beautiful, modern designs, this brand founded by Ethiopian model Liya Kebede carries sundresses, beach dresses, caftans, and tunics that are made mostly from natural cotton. Five percent of lemlem’s direct sales, proceeds from special collaborations, and donations advance the mission of lemlem Foundation, lemlem’s philanthropic arm, which helps women artisans in Africa thrive by connecting them to healthcare, education, and pathways to jobs.
Sarep + Rose
Designed in New York by Liberian Founder Robin Sirleaf using leather sourced, cut, and sewn in Africa, Sarep + Rose’s bags honor their heritage and embody a distinctive hybrid modernity. A bright juxtaposition of African materials and craftsmanship with western design and functionality, these bags aim to fuse two still-separate worlds, make a positive social and economic impact on Pan-African society while upholding its beauty and supporting generations for self-taught artisans.
Lucielle Salomon Lucielle Salomon is a PR professional and a freelance writer and editor on sustainable fashion and beauty. She manages her time between copywriting and strategizing content for her multiple lifestyle clients, writing research-based articles, and curating sustainable shopping guides. Lucielle is based in Tampa, FL but lived in the Dominican Republic for 11 years and is now a self-proclaimed DR ambassador, enticing everyone she encounters to visit the island.
