Does resin cure faster under pressure?
Resin pressure casting is the process of using a pressure chamber paired with an air compressor to help remove bubbles from resin. If you are creating goods that cannot have a single bubble, pressure casting is the most reliable method with the quickest cure time.
How To Make Epoxy Resin Dry Faster? - YouTube
How to Safely Use a Pressure Pot - Resin Casting Tips - YouTube
RESIN CURES TOO QUICKLY
Again, the reasons are linked to the temperature of your working environment: if it is too high, the product may catalyse too quickly and compromise your work. It is therefore advisable to keep the temperature at around 20°-25° [68-77 F] and not to mix excessive doses of product.
Thus, the pressure pot is best used when your mold making or casting material cures to a solid and the vacuum chamber is used to remove air from flexible rubbers. The vacuum chamber can also de-air solid resins and epoxies, too.
To answer your question, “Can you put resin in the oven?” You can cure Epoxy resin faster when using the oven; however, you should make sure that you don't overheat this material.
Resin curing Using Hair or Blow Dryer
What is this? You can use a blow dryer or hair dryer to dry your resin art fast. To do this, simply plug in the dryer and blow it directly onto your resin art. But be cautious to not blow too hard and too warm.
In most cases, the reason you have resin that bends is due to the fact that the resin needs more time to cure. After 24 hours, ArtResin will be at a 95% solidity rate. If you attempt to curve or move the resin before that 24 hour mark, the resin will likely bend.
Sticky, tacky resin: This is often caused by inaccurate measuring, not mixing thoroughly or by curing in cold temperatures. Try moving your piece to a warmer spot: if it doesn't dry, re-pour with a fresh coat of resin.
We recommend setting the pressure pot at 60 psi; the closer to 100 psi, the better.
Can you reheat resin?
Yes, if your ArtResin is colder than room temperature, we recommend using a water bath to warm your resin prior to mixing. Warmer epoxy resin is generally easier to work with and has far less bubbles.
Sometimes when resin is left to cure in cold conditions, the surface can develop a greasy film from the amines in the hardener. This film rapidly clogs sandpaper. The best thing to do if you detect this greasiness is wash it with warm water mixed with a small amount of dishwashing detergent.
The resin has hardened and/or turned white
Occasionally the resin (part A) can build up crystallization and/or gel, which makes the resin cloudy. Don't worry, there's an easy fix! The white or crystallized product may form when the resin has frozen during shipping or storage.
Many have mentioned using the vacuum chamber for your mixture of resin+hardener. Even if you are using vacuum to infuse resin into your reinforcement , you still need to degas your resin after mixing in the hardener. For my epoxy resin, 10 minutes under vacuum pressure of -80 kPa works the best.
Once a resin has soft cured, you can demold it and set it aside to allow it to fully cure. It will be soft and indentable at this point, so handle it carefully.
