Log cabins are beautiful, but if you don’t choose the right log home stain or log sealer, you can end up in a log home maintenance nightmare. Some of the unique characteristics of wood make it suitable for a variety of applications in the building industry: log homes, decks, rough-sawn siding, fences, and shingles. Without protection from sun and moisture, wood will weather and eventually deteriorate. A log home stain or log sealer is used to enhance the appearance of log cabins. They also add dimensional stability and prevent deterioration.
The weathering of wooden logs is a combination of chemical, mechanical, biological, and sunlight-induced processes that change the appearance and structure of wooden surfaces. After two months of exposure, all untreated logs turn yellowish or brownish, and then gray. Dark woods will become lighter; light woods eventually darken. Surface checks, raised grain, cupping, and warping all will develop as wood weathers.
Log Home Stain Types
Research conducted by the Forest Products Laboratory indicates that failure to properly treat new lumber can reduce the average life of wood by 20%. Understanding the differences between different types of log home stains makes it easier to select the right product. In the past, stains were made from alkyd or natural oil resins, such as linseed, tung, soya, and paraffin. The resins were often blended with waxes to provide additional water repellency, and then diluted with a mineral spirits solvent.
Technological advances and environmental regulations on emission levels of volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) have sparked the development of new products. Water-based products, particularly those formulated with certain water-reducible synthetic oils and resins, have excellent penetration and perform as well as, or better than, oil-based (alkyd) finishes. The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has standardized test methods to measure the water repellency and color retention of wood finishes. In ASTM test D5401-93, a finish is applied to a 2″ by 4″ section of wood, allowed to cure for seven days under controlled conditions, and then tested for water absorbency.
Standard ASTM G53-88 evaluates the water repellency of coatings exposed to ultraviolet light and condensation in a weather exposure chamber for 1000 hours. Manufacturers also use outdoor testing to measure weathering in different climates, and they might provide test results if you request them. Finishes are generally classified into two basic categories:
Film Forming Stains – Those that form a film or surface coating on wood
Penetrating Stains – Those that penetrate into the pores of the wood.
Film Forming Log Sealers
These products form a film or coating, that creates a barrier between the wood and the elements. Film-formers include many alkyds, latex/acrylics, and varnish resins in solvent or water-based finishes. Products without pigments are considered to be a clear or transparent finish, and have little or no protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Pigments are added to paints, solid color stains, and semi-transparent finishes to change the appearance of the wood and to provide protection from UV rays.
Some of the newer water-based coatings are semi-transparent acrylic blends that have excellent flexibility. Unfortunately, due to their higher molecular weight, some acrylics still form a film on the surface of wood, and are subject to the cracking that is a characteristic of all film-forming finishes. Film finishes crack as wood expands and contracts during normal moisture cycling and water gets underneath the finish and deteriorates the wood. Removing film-forming wood stains can be difficult, but is often necessary before re-application. If the failing coat is not removed, then the new coat may blister and peel. For these reasons, film-forming finishes are generally not used on log homes.
Penetrating Log Home Stain
Log cabin stained withDEFY Wood Stain
The best exterior stain for log homes are oil or water-based products that saturate wood pores to prevent water penetration. They typically contain a drying oil or resin in a transparent or semitransparent stain. Advantages of penetrating stains over films are that they provide long-term water repellency, they don’t trap moisture in the wood, and they do not peel or blister. Natural oils (linseed and tung, for example) are initially very effective in stopping the absorption of water into wood, but tend to darken over time because they are a food for fungi. Buildings treated with natural oils and resins generally need extensive cleaning before reapplying the finish.
Some of the newer water-based systems are made with synthetic resins with added zinc to deter mildew growth and they provide excellent water repellency and color retention. One of the main advantages of synthetic resins is that unlike natural oils, they do not serve as a food for most biological growth, making future coats easier to apply. Penetrating finishes are ideal for use as a log sealer as they are easy to apply, easy to maintain, and won’t peel. Semi-transparent log home stains are by far the most popular finishes for the log home market.
How Do You Stain a Log Home?
Correct application technique is critical to performance. Follow the manufacturers’ instructions, particularly with the newer water-based formulations. All finishes should be applied to a clean surface, but penetrating finishes must be applied to surfaces that are porous and free from previous coatings. Although chlorine bleach will effectively remove many stains likemold and mildew, it can damage wood and is toxic to people and plant life. Anoxygen bleach deck cleaneris environmentally safe and can actually increase product penetration up to 25%.
Wood that is pre-treated with a cleaner or power washer will probably have some have better finish penetration. Water-based finishes tend to dry faster than oil-based products. To avoid lap marks, particularly on hot sunny days, apply these only in the shade: the cooler surface will absorb better and allow for easier application of a second coat.
How Often Should a Log Home Be Stained?
Routine maintenance is necessary, but the life-span of a sealer or log stain depends on a variety of factors including:
Construction details
Exposure to mother nature
Product choice
Surface preparation
Application techniques
All of these factors are essential to success. Some finishes may even require chemical stripping or sandblasting to restore wood to the proper condition before re-treatment. Finishes that weather unevenly and are re-coated without removing the old finish will have an unsightly, patchy appearance.
Although the log stain is only a small percent of the cost of a log home, it is one of the more critical elements in construction. To most consumers, aesthetic appeal is just as important as performance when selecting a wood finish. Understanding the properties and expected performance of various products makes the decision process much easier for you.
One of the better products on the market that’s geared specifically toward log homes isDEFY Extreme Semi-Transparent Wood Stain. It’s been a go-to stain for log cabins for decades and has a great track record of performance. Before staining, make sure toproperly prep your woodfirst.
For either new or older log homes we recommend Energy Seal since it has outstanding elongation and adhesion. This means that as your home settles and shifts, Energy Seal stretches to maintain its bond to the wood. It is available in 12 different colors and since it is textured, it will take the color of the stain.
Chinking is a synthetic sealant that is used to seal the joints of log homes. Chinking is textured like mortar and very flexible. Chinking can be used in place of caulk and is mostly used in the joints between logs. Chinking keeps moisture out by sealing the joints and protects log homes from moisture related damage.
Each side of the log cabin was typically between 12 and 16 feet long. Once the walls and the roof were finished, the pioneers would seal the cracks between the logs with mud or clay. This was called "daubing" or "chinking" the walls.
The best way to prevent rot is to keep water out of your wood. This can be done by using a top notch exterior finish on your logs and log siding and regularly maintaining that finish per the manufacturer's directions. The key is maintaining that finish on a regular basis to keep water out.
Opaque: Sometimes called “solid deck stain,” this product contains the highest percentage of pigment and can protect wood the longest, requiring a recoat every 4 to 5 years. Opaque stain, also the densest, completely hides the wood grain.
The primary benefit of staining the exterior rather than applying log cabin paint is a stain's ability to allow logs to breathe. Log cabin paint will seal the logs completely, trapping any moisture that's already inside, leading to rot.
The cost of resealing and repairing log cabin chinking can cost anywhere from $2-$5. For a typical 1,500 square foot home, the price tag for this type of log cabin maintenance may run anywhere from $3,000 to $7,500. Homes that are not maintained properly may sustain damage.
There are two basic forms of sealing- caulk and weather stripping. With caulk, which is a flexible compound, you can fill cracks in any construction material. It can also be used to seal gaps between different materials like window frames and siding.
Using paraffinic oil based stains is recommended for log cabins. These types of stains are true penetrating and don't form a film. As compared to linseed oil, paraffinic oil is of a thinner consistency and thus absorbs deeper into the grain of the wood.
As a general rule, you will need to stain your log home every 4 to 6 years, depending on the elements. Factors such as exposure to rain, sunlight, hail, wind, climate etc. will affect how often you home needs to be re-stained. South and West facing walls may require re-staining every 2 to 3 years.
With that truly unique log exterior, there are some vastly different maintenance requirements compared to an average suburban home. Sealing a log home is crucial to keeping the color looking exceptional, while protecting the health of the wood.
A log home is any structure built by logs, while a log cabin is typically the smaller, more secluded, less-modern version — one of those “a square is a rectangle but a rectangle isn't a square” situations.
Chinking was often made of mud, clay, sand, mixed with water (or “spit” as some pioneer recipes called for), hog, goat or cow hair, corn cobs or husks, grass, hemp, or oakum (frayed rope), or even livestock manure or buffalo chips. (12) Shake shingles were often used to roof cabins.
Boric acid (borate) is one of the most effective fungicides for use in treating wood rot. It can be applied to wood during construction to prevent future rot, or as a treatment to stop an active decay fungus from growing.
Scavengers! Termites, ants, wood roaches will eat away and break down the log. Look for bark art left behind by bark beetles who eat away at the living layer (cambium) of the tree just under the surface of the bark and contribute to the death of a tree.
Unfortunately, the appearance of the logs can be just the “tip of the iceberg” because the reason that logs turn black is from too much moisture getting into the wood. Moisture can come from many sources, mostly though, it comes from rain. Sometimes it's the stain itself that causes logs to go black.
Oil-based stains are the best wood stain for furniture or any large wood surface because of the slower drying time, which gives the piece a more even finish. Oil-based stains tend to penetrate deeper, leaving behind a richer color that is easy to refresh by applying another coat.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
Cabot Semi-Solid Deck & Siding Stains can be used on most types of smooth and rough exterior wood, including decks, siding, fences, log homes and roofs. They provide excellent results on weathered wood and well-seasoned lumber such as cedar, fir, pine, cypress, spruce, redwood and plywood panel siding.
Staining the interior logs in a log home brings out the natural beauty of the wood while protecting the structure from moisture. This is one of those tasks that is an absolute "must" to preserve the logs and keep them from deteriorating for the life of the home.
Water-based stains are on the shorter end of longevity, with a lifespan of around three to five years, whereas oil-based stains will usually last approximately five to seven years.
While some stains can last up to five years, postponing re-staining a wood surface for too long can cause the job to become more complex and labour intensive. Even decks that are stripped and re-stained will still require maintenance every couple of years.
Pressure washing can be perfectly safe for your log home so long as you use the right technique. Always keep the wand moving, especially at higher psi settings, and use a wide fan setting. Holding the stream in the same place for too long or standing too close could damage the wood.
After staining wood do you have to seal it? What is this? After staining wood, you have to seal if because the wood remains a porous surface. If you're just using a regular stain, it can provide some degree of protection compared to totally unfinished wood.
Use an outdoor-rated finish like polyurethane, epoxy, lacquer, or varnish. Make a natural oil finish with one part tung or linseed oil, one part mineral spirits, and one part polyurethane. Use a stain sealant combo that gives your wood some color and a durable finish all in one.
Stain will come in right around $1600. Now the national average to apply log home stain in the nation currently sits around $1.30 a sq ft, so with labor costs you are coming in around $3,900. A top coat with application we do for $500. Leaving you with a grand total of $6000.
About the least expensive sealant is the Thompson's Water Seal. This product advertizes a 12 month life. We used buckets full of it on our first log home and after eleven months it needed to be redone.
There are two basic forms of sealing- caulk and weather stripping. With caulk, which is a flexible compound, you can fill cracks in any construction material. It can also be used to seal gaps between different materials like window frames and siding.
ANCHORSEAL® Classic is a premium wax emulsion end grain sealer for the prevention of end checks and drying splits in hardwood and softwood logs and lumber. By controlling the rate of moisture loss, up to 90% of end checks can be prevented.
You'll get best results if you use a non-toxic exterior cleaning product designed to be applied and then washed off. Scrub the surface with a soft car wash brush with a long handle. Rinse thoroughly with clear water after washing and scrubbing, then let the walls dry for two warm days before examining the surface.
As a general rule, you will need to stain your log home every 4 to 6 years, depending on the elements. Factors such as exposure to rain, sunlight, hail, wind, climate etc. will affect how often you home needs to be re-stained. South and West facing walls may require re-staining every 2 to 3 years.
Four of the most popular are polyurethane, lacquer, varnish, and epoxy. Application techniques vary depending on the product, but we'll give you a general idea of how to apply your finish. Clean the wood completely before applying the finish. If the wood is already finished, sand it off before applying a new one.
Sealing wood is by far the best way to protect it from water damage. Sealants are made to protect surfaces from everything from scratches to swelling, so use sealants if you can afford them to protect your wood. The most common type of wood sealer is polyurethane sealer.
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Log cabin stained withDEFY Wood Stain