The Beginners Guide to Buying Your First Patek Philippe (2024)

If you’re thinking about buying your first Patek Philippe, we’re glad you stopped here before you did. In the world of luxury watches there are countless brands that get thrown in our faces on a daily basis. From Omega to Breitling, Rolex and many more. Combined, these three brands spend an estimated $150 million dollars per year on advertising to ensure that it is known by all that they are the forefront of luxury. However, there is one brand that spends a small fraction of that amount and is still known to produce some of the world’s highest quality watches. They produce approximately 50,000 watches a year — 35,000 of which are mechanical men’s watches. It is thought of by many as the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking. That brand is Patek Philippe. Since its inception in 1839, it has remained an independent and family-owned watch manufacturer. If you are one of the lucky few searching for your first Patek Philippe, here is some basic information you should know before going out and buying one.

Patek Philippe currently offers approximately 200 models. The best way to organize these watches is into several subcategories or “families.” The majority of men’s watches include the Calatrava, Nautilus, Aquanaut, Complicated, and Grand Complication families.

Patek Philippe Families

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The Beginners Guide to Buying Your First Patek Philippe (1)

Nautilus 5740/HODINKEE

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5170G Chronograph/HODINKEE

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The Beginners Guide to Buying Your First Patek Philippe (4)

Grand Complication 5327/HODINKEE

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Calatrava 5212A/HODINKEE

Under each of these families sit many different models. These models are often differentiated and referred to based on which complications they have. For example, a standard three hand (minute, hour, seconds hands) Nautilus with no complications is often referred to as just a Nautilus. A Nautilus that has an annual calendar is often referred to as an annual calendar Nautilus. To make things a bit more confusing, a majority of collectors and enthusiasts don’t refer to the models by name at all, but rather by their designated reference/model number. A basic three-hand Nautilus with no complications has a reference number of 5711/1A.

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Nautilus 5711/1A-010/PATEK PHILIPPE

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5711/1A-011/PATEK PHILIPPE

An Annual Calendar Nautilus has a reference number 5726/1A. If you are just starting out, it is advised by us that you know the reference of the watch you are interested in before visiting your local authorized dealer. This ensures there is no confusion as to which watch you are requesting. Additionally, it is an indication to your authorized dealer that you have done your research.

The Beginners Guide to Buying Your First Patek Philippe (8)

Nautilus 5726/1A-014 /PATEK PHILIPPE

When looking at different models, we see that most are made out of either rose gold (notated by the letter R), yellow gold (notated by the letter J), white gold (noted by the letter G), and stainless steel (notated by the letter A). Patek Philippe states to this day stainless steel is the most precious metal they produce. This is due to the fact that some of the most expensive auction pieces to have ever sold were stainless steel variants of a model normally fitted with a precious metal. Some of these include the model 1518 in steel that sold for over $11 million USD and a limited production 5004A in steel that sold for nearly $550,000 USD. Patek Philippe is also very selective over which models are offered in stainless steel.

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Stainless Steel 1518 Perpetual Calendar/HODINKEE

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Eric Clapton’s 2499/HODINKEE

There are three major avenues people use to buy Patek Philippe watches. There are Patek Philippe Salons, Authorized Dealers and the secondary market dealers. Patek Philippe owns and maintains three Salons throughout the world where you can purchase a watch. The next option to acquire your Patek Philippe is from a third party owned jewelry store or a stand-alone boutique that is authorized by Patek Philippe to sell its watches. The non-Patek Philippe affiliated option is the secondary market. The secondary market includes resellers and grey market dealers. These three points of sale will be discussed in greater depth in a future article.

A majority of first time Patek Philippe buyers will gravitate towards entry-level models priced $19,000-$30,000 USD. Within this price range buyers have several options to choose from; the Calatrava, Nautilus and Aquanaut families.

From these families, only models from the Calatrava family will be readily available at your local authorized dealer. These models include the Calatrava 5196 as well as the Calatrava 5227 and they are two stunning examples of dress watches that Patek Philippe has evolved and refined over decades. If you are planning to buy a Calatrava for your first Patek Philippe — you should have two goals. First and foremost is to secure a discount. The second is to let your authorized dealer know that you would like to purchase the Calatrava only if you can be added to the waitlist for a high demand piece such as a Nautilus 5711/1A, further accompanied by an email confirmation regarding the estimated time of arrival.

How to Buy

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Calatrava 5196/HODINKEE

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Calatrava 5227/HODINKEE

The models from the Nautilus and Aquanaut families will be very difficult to obtain from your authorized dealer. You will be judged and scrutinized to see if you are “worthy” of being considered for one so don’t be surprised. Your authorized dealer may put you through a small process to prove to them you are a local client (they want local buyers only) and that you are not affiliated with the watch business. This can often be done by simply giving them a business card and telling them a little about yourself. Nearly every model from the two families resells on the secondary market for substantially above its current retail price due to limited supply and high demand. The Aquanaut model 5167A is the basic three-hand model on a rubber strap with no complications. It retails for $18,940 USD but resells for nearly $30,000 USD in today’s market and has an average waitlist time of 3 years. The Nautilus 5711/1A retails for $29,800 but resells for nearly $65,000 and has a 5 years waitlist at most authorized dealers. Needless to say, as a result of these large potential profits both collectors and dealers are scrambling to acquire these models. With that said, we do have a few suggestions that may increase your chances of acquiring a Nautilus or Aquanaut.

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Aquanaut 5167A-001/Patek Philippe

1. Be honest and upfront with your sales agent. Let them know that you understand the high demand for the model but you intend to keep it for personal use.
2. Prove to them that you are not a watch dealer looking to flip the watch for an easy profit. Let them know your profession; it always helps to form a personal relationship.
3. Offer to let them hold the Certificate of Origin while it is under factory warranty. This gives them some reassurance you are not going to “turn and burn” the watch.
4. Let them know this will be the first transaction of many and you plan to be a loyal customer.
5. Last but certainly not least, tell your sales agent if he is adding you to the waitlist but doesn’t have any reasonable time frame or expectation of delivery to please let you know so you can contact another authorized dealer who may not have as long of a wait.

An important cost to keep in mind as with any mechanical device is general maintenance, which includes a service of the movement every 5 years. You can expect this service to have a starting cost of $800 USD for a basic three-hand watch (hour, minute, seconds hands).

When choosing a watch this expensive to purchase there are a few reasons I personally would only go with Patek Philippe. First and foremost, the fit and finish of its watches is uncompromising and arguably the best in the world. Its movements are some of the most complicated and sought after including the heavily modified Valjoux movements. Patek has been making watches for over 175 years and will continue to be making watches for another 175 years. With this tremendous history many of the highest prices ever paid at auction were for Patek Philippe wrist and pocket watches fetching as much as $24 million USD. This history and high bar for quality sets Patek apart from the rest of the brands and makes it one of the safest brands to spend your money on without getting burned when going to resell it or trade it in down the line. The Stern Family (owners of Patek Philippe) have been fantastic guardians and stewards of the Brand and I believe in this family going into the future to uphold all that is Patek Philippe. Most importantly, the design of most of its watches and its innovations and complications never cease to amaze.

We hope this helps some of you first-time buyers get your sea legs in the world of Patek Philippe. Good luck and we are looking forward to bringing you more informative articles like this to keep you informed on all things Patek Philippe, Rolex and more.

David Farkas is the founder of Swiss Watch Time and graduated from the University of Arizona’s Eller College of Business with a Bachelor’s degree in Accounting. He has had a passion for watches from a very young age and has been an avid collector of Patek Philippe and Rolex for over ten years. He has used his education and zeal for watches to pursue a career in the field he loves. David is passionate about helping new buyers enter the world of fine Swiss watches as well as helping the most seasoned collector attain their grail watches. He is also an expert on Patek Philippe watches and has operated online under the screen name “Perpetualman88.”

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The Beginners Guide to Buying Your First Patek Philippe (2024)

FAQs

The Beginners Guide to Buying Your First Patek Philippe? ›

In order to get a new one, you would need to be on an exclusive client list, or know someone in the business. The Patek Philippe company has been making timepieces since 1839. One of the oldest watchmakers in the world, the company has been under the guarded care of the Stern family since 1932.

Is it difficult to buy a Patek Philippe? ›

In order to get a new one, you would need to be on an exclusive client list, or know someone in the business. The Patek Philippe company has been making timepieces since 1839. One of the oldest watchmakers in the world, the company has been under the guarded care of the Stern family since 1932.

What is the starting price for a Patek? ›

The starting price for a Patek Philippe men's watch is around $18,000 for an Aquanaut. The iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus price is at least $27,000, while the most expensive Patek Philippe watches reach over $300,000.

How long is the waitlist for Patek Philippe? ›

The waiting list for a new Patek Philippe watch is estimated to be up to eight years long. Due to limited production runs, Patek Philippe Nautilus watches have an extensively long waitlist. Skip the line by buying authentic Patek Philippe watches through reputable sites, including 1stDibs.

Is it worth buying a Patek Philippe? ›

At the end of the day, however, it doesn't really matter whether it's a gold or steel version, or one with complications: The Patek Philippe Nautilus is and remains an attractive investment and one of the most collectable luxury watches of all time.

Is there a waiting list for Patek Philippe watches? ›

Waiting lists for Rolex watches are capped at 4,000 people for some models, according to one of the world's largest authorised dealers, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the United Arab Emirates, but at the same time, they have only 20-30 people on lists for Patek Philippe's far rarer timepieces.

What Patek is most sought after? ›

Patek Philippe is one of the world's most prestigious luxury watch brands and buyers have a wide variety of different timepieces to choose from. However, established collections like the Nautilus, Aquanaut, Calatrava and Grand Complications are the most popular and most highly sought after.

Is Patek more expensive than Rolex? ›

As a result of these differences, Patek Philippe watches are, in general, more expensive than Rolex models.

Who wears a Patek Philippe watch? ›

Following the Queen, Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, Queen Elizabeth II, Albert Einstein, Princess Diana, Marie Curie, Pope Pius IX, J.F.K., Picasso, and many other legendary figures from history have worn Patek Philippe's watches.

Are Patek watches worth it? ›

Patek Philippe is considered one of the highest-end luxury watchmakers. In fact, it's part of the so-called Holy Trinity, with Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and they've been making great watches since 1830.

Can you wear a Patek everyday? ›

Even very expensive precious metal watches such as Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs can and should be everyday wearers. That's what they were designed for says Thierry Stern. “They should be worn everyday and if you damage them, send it in to Patek and we will fix them” he reassures us.

How often should I wind a Patek Philippe? ›

- A manually wound watch should preferably be wound every morning. This optimizes the flawless function of the movement and reduces its susceptibility to shocks and positional variations. - Self-winding movements have a power reserve of between 38 and 48 hours (except special models).

How long does a Patek Philippe watch last? ›

A Patek Philippe watch can last anywhere from four to eight years, depending on the complexity of the movement of the watch. But as long as the watch is serviced and properly cared for, any luxury watch will last a lifetime. On 1stDibs, find vintage and modern Patek Philippe pieces.

What does wearing a Patek Philippe say about you? ›

These watches demonstrate the class and subtle sophistication of their owner. If you wear a Patek Philippe watch, you tell the world that you understand the reason for wearing a watch – not because you wish to cross the line into wanton flamboyance, but because you are quietly confident and secure in yourself.

Who is Patek Philippe biggest competitor? ›

Rolex. Rolex is often highlighted as the main competitor to Patek Philippe and the Rolex brand is more widely recognized. In fact, Rolex is by far the largest and most popular luxury watch manufacturer in the world.

Are Patek prices falling? ›

After an unprecedented surge in 2021 and into the first three months of 2022, prices for the most desired Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet models have been falling sharply. Watch values have been hit by slowing economic growth, higher interest rates and the collapse of crypto currencies.

Is Patek overpriced? ›

The way Patek Philippe watches are created means their production takes longer, resulting in lower inventories than most other luxury brands. This makes Patek Philippe watches highly exclusive and, thus, expensive.

Why do people buy Patek Philippe? ›

Simply put, Patek owners know that they have the very best in craftsmanship, heritage and design sitting on their wrists — and once you've owned a , nothing else will do. It's said that fewer than one million Patek Philippe watches have been made since 1839.

How can you get a Patek Philippe? ›

There are three major avenues people use to buy Patek Philippe watches. There are Patek Philippe Salons, Authorized Dealers and the secondary market dealers. Patek Philippe owns and maintains three Salons throughout the world where you can purchase a watch.

How hard is it to get Aquanaut? ›

It is one of the most in-demand pieces, and as a result, it has become increasingly difficult to find in an authorized dealer. So, going with a pre-owned Aquanaut is a solid option mainly because they are available to purchase.

What is the most profitable Patek Philippe? ›

While luxury watch prices dipped slightly in 2022, the Patek Philippe Nautilus still remains one of the most profitable investment watches of all time.

How much does a Patek watch increase value? ›

Prices for Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet watches appreciated by an average of 20 per cent a year since mid-2018, outpacing the S&P 500 Index, as values for pre-owned luxury timepieces surged, a new report shows.

What is the Holy Trinity of watches? ›

Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. Together, these famous watch brands make up the watch Holy Trinity. In a way, they're like the three musketeers.

What is the number 1 most expensive watch? ›

Worldwide: The most expensive watch ever sold at auction worldwide is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010, which fetched 31.19 million US dollars (31,000,000 CHF) in Geneva on 9 November 2019 (by Christie's).

Who are the big three watchmakers? ›

The Trinity or 'big three' is a nickname given to the most luxurious watchmaking brands in the world. At the top of their game, the three watchmaking companies are Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe.

Is Patek owned by Rolex? ›

Since 1932, the company has been owned by the Stern family in Switzerland and remains the last family-owned independent watch manufacturer in Geneva.

Does the Pope have a Patek Philippe watch? ›

Very few Patek Philippe watches have made their way to the inner chambers of the Vatican. The present watch, recently discovered and offered here for the first time at auction, is one of two identical watches so far known that were presented to Pope Pius IX in 1877.

Which celebrity owns Patek Philippe? ›

Legendary musician Eric Clapton is an avid watch collector and owns a super rare Patek Philippe 2499, which is regarded as a holy grail of the brand.

How can you tell if Patek is real? ›

It should be sharp, perfectly proportional, and flawlessly spaced. Fake versions often have poor-quality engravings that “bleed” around the edges, making them look blurry. Older movements will have the Geneva Seal while newer versions will be embossed with the Patek Philippe Seal.

How many Pateks are made a year? ›

Initially, small pieces face a huge hype: Patek Philippe builds around 60,000 watches a year.

Why do rappers like Patek? ›

Patek comes from Patek Philip, a brand of Swiss luxury watches that are known for their elegant designs and use of diamonds and other expensive materials. Pateks are a favorite amongst rappers, especially those that love diamonds and expensive watches. Future even released a song that uses this slang as a title.

How often do you need to service a Patek? ›

We recommend every 3-5 years or whenever necessary. Only authorized Patek Philippe Service Centers are able to comply with the extremely strict quality criteria set by the Manufacture.

Why is Rolex more popular than Patek? ›

Rolex has the unique advantage of popularity and recognition throughout the world; which Patek Philippe does as well, but Rolex is generally more known and accessible. Their average rough estimate price for one of their watches is somewhere around $15,000 usd, which is much less expensive than that of Patek Philippe's.

Do Pateks glow in the dark? ›

All modern Patek Philippe watches use sapphire crystals. Models with luminescent coating, such as the Aquanaut and Nautilus, should have even luminescent consistency when viewed in the dark.

How accurate is Patek Philippe per day? ›

For movements, the Patek Philippe Seal specifies an extreme rate accuracy with a tolerance of no more than -3/+2 seconds per day.

Can you over wind a Patek? ›

To manually wind your Patek Philippe watch, locate the crown and rotate it clockwise 30 to 40 times. Stop as soon as you feel resistance to avoid overwinding — this is important, as overwinding can potentially damage your watch.

What kind of man wears Panerai? ›

The Panerai wearer has a relatively creative job in PR or Marketing and lives for the weekend, which he spends exploring the world's urban scenery. His apartment (or loft), where he spends his time listening to his favourite vinyls, has a minimalistic design and a lot of space.

What does you never actually own a Patek Philippe mean? ›

The complete sentence is "You Never Actually Own A Patek Philippe, You Merely Look After It For The Next Generation". It means that first you do not sell the watch 8kind of obvious).

Why is Patek so special? ›

A premium watchmaker, Patek Philippe creates timepieces that are typically made from precious metals and stones, like gold, platinum, and diamond. With the highest quality materials and craftsmanship, Patek Philippe's timepieces are designed to last a lifetime.

Is Patek Philippe better than AP? ›

Patek Philippe is more conservative and classic on the design front, whereas the very popular Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watches are more out of the proverbial box when it comes to design with their octagonal shapes and avant-garde look.

Who is the rival of Rolex? ›

See how Rolex compares to similar products. Rolex's top competitors include Breitling, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Chopard. Breitling specializes in the development and manufacturing of watches.

Who is the biggest luxury watch seller? ›

Top Selling Watch Brands:
  • Rolex.
  • F.P. Journe.
  • Patek Philippe.

Will Rolex prices go down 2023? ›

The pre-owned Rolex market has got out of hand and is in need of a correction. Expect that in 2023 used Rolex prices will continue to decline. Outside of the economy, it's been credibly reported that Rolex has actually improved their production output.

What Patek Philippe sold for $5 million? ›

A Patek Philippe watch owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi—the last emperor of China's Qing dynasty—sold for $5.1 million hammer at an auction Tuesday, more than 85 years after it was first made by the German manufacturer.

What is the hardest Rolex to buy? ›

The Rolex Sky-Dweller 326934 is definitely the top amongst the Rolex models that are the hardest to get. Of them all, the Sky-Dweller 326934 with blue dial is the most difficult to acquire. One of the reasons why this watch is so difficult to acquire partially has to do with the complexity of producing the movement.

How long does it take to get a Patek Philippe Nautilus? ›

According to Christie's, the production of the most basic Patek Philippe watch takes nine months. For some of the more complicated watches, it can take more than two years to make them.

How long does it take to produce a Patek Philippe? ›

Patek production is so detailed that it takes nine months to make its most basic watches, and more than two years to produce some of the more complicated timepieces.

What is the holy grail of watches? ›

Essentially, it is a shorthand term used by watch collectors for prohibitively expensive, extremely rare or sought-after timepieces. The use of the word 'grail' comes from the mythical 'Holy Grail' that was believed to be an extremely rare artifact. This timeless classic is an icon of luxury watches.

How often do you service a Patek Philippe? ›

We recommend every 3-5 years or whenever necessary. Only authorized Patek Philippe Service Centers are able to comply with the extremely strict quality criteria set by the Manufacture.

How long will a Patek Philippe last? ›

A Patek Philippe watch can last anywhere from four to eight years, depending on the complexity of the movement of the watch. But as long as the watch is serviced and properly cared for, any luxury watch will last a lifetime. On 1stDibs, find vintage and modern Patek Philippe pieces.

Can you daily wear a Patek? ›

Even very expensive precious metal watches such as Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs can and should be everyday wearers. That's what they were designed for says Thierry Stern. “They should be worn everyday and if you damage them, send it in to Patek and we will fix them” he reassures us.

What does a Patek Philippe say about you? ›

If you're sporting a Patek Philippe, you're the kind of man who owns a tuxedo and knows that the pleats of a cumme*rbund always face upwards. You know how to put together an outfit for any occasion—golfing a client, co*cktails with the in-laws, or even while doing home repairs– with Don Draper-worthy panache.

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