The sticky relationship between sugar and skin isn’t as well versed as that of how sun exposure, smoking or pollution can accelerating ageing. But the implications of sugar for our skin are significant.
It’s down to a process called glycation, “where sugar molecules attach themselves to collagen and elastin and form damaging by-products, known as advanced glycation end products (AGEs)” explains Dr Wassim Taktouk, a leading aesthetic doctor based in London. AGEs turn flexible proteins rigid and brittle, he tells us, “making newly glycated collagen lose its critical regenerative ability”. Once formed, these damaged proteins cannot be repaired or replaced, meaning prevention – where possible – is key.
Accumulatively, “the process weakens skin integrity resulting visibly as wrinkles, crepiness, sagging, and dullness,” he continues. But that's not all. “Glycation also causes free radical formation, oxidative stress and inflammation, all of which accelerate ageing.”
It may sound calamitous, but there are things you can do to combat glycation.
Glycation: what you can do for your skin
Glycation is a natural phenomenon and to a certain extent unavoidable – even with normal levels of glucose the process can occur. However, high-sugar diets can speed up the formation of AGEs, and sugar found in high glycemic index (GI) foods are especially impactful.
From dietary to topical, here Dr Taktouk and cosmetic dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams share strategies to minimise the visible effects of AGEs.
1. Become more sugar aware
Sugar in sweet treats is obvious, whereas sugar in cereals, yoghurt, soups, sauces, condiments and salad dressings is not so much. Spend more time studying food labels, noting that products are considered to be high in sugar if more than 22.5g of total sugars per 100g (whereas they’re considered low if they show 5g or less of total sugars per 100g).
While sugars from natural sources like fruits have less of an effect on skin’s proteins and fibres, it’s worth also being mindful of your fruit consumption. Dr Williams explains, “fructose is more active in glycation than glucose – so don’t drink fruit juices regularly and try to moderate your consumption of high-sugar fruit” – which include bananas, grapes and mangoes.
2. Avoid unnecessary grazing
Dr Williams also suggests we graze less. “It's often advised to eat throughout the day ‘to avoid sugar lows’, which suggests that we are supposed to keep our sugar levels constantly high! However, the higher blood sugar levels are, the quicker we age. So, to keep blood sugar and insulin levels, oxidative stress, glycation and inflammation processes down, we should avoid grazing.” Protein-rich foods, which break down more slowly and stay in the stomach longer, will make you feel fuller.
3. Sleep more
“Sleep deprivation is also known to impair insulin sensitivity and glucose tolerance,” says Dr Williams, which means that glycation is more likely. Make sure you are getting a six-to-eight hours of sleep per night. Try our expert guide to getting better sleep, here.
5. Stress less
Not only can stress lead to raised levels of cortisol, which degenerates collagen, Dr Williams notes that “stress increases free radical regeneration and oxidative stress throughout our entire body which is a key factor when it comes to ageing”. Here an increase in dietary and skincare antioxidants can be beneficial.
SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Interrupter Advanced
SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Interrupter Advanced
6. Introduce anti-glycation skincare
“Sugar molecules have already been implicated in the glycation process, but pollution and UV-induced glycation is also problematic,” reveals Dr Taktouk. “All these external aggressors contribute to transforming collagen and elastin into AGEs.” With this in mind, SkinCeuticals created the A.G.E. Interrupter Advanced, a cream designed to interrupt the formation of AGEs. “It contains wild fruit flavonoids from blueberry and pomegranate which are potent antioxidants and help inhibit protein glycation including that induced by UV.” It also contains proxylane – which helps stimulate collagen, correct wrinkles and laxity, as well as glycyrrhetinic acid “which is anti-inflammatory and helps enhance skin’s radiance to counter dull, sallow skin linked to AGEs”.
Dr Taktouk applies this in the morning after the antioxidant serum CE Ferulic, also by SkinCeuticals – which is proven to play a role in neutralising free radicals – and before SPF, namely the Ultra Violette Super Screen SPF50+ which also features antioxidant-rich ingredients while protecting skin from UVA and UVB rays.
If you are interested in measuring your personal glycation profile, look to Santi London's comprehensive Skin Lab service. By measuring AGE levels, it can provide valuable insights into the impact of these on your skin and inform the clinic's highly trained skin specialists to tailor a personalised treatment plan accordingly.
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum
SkinCeuticals Anti-Wrinkle A.G.E. Eye Complex
Ultra Violette Supreme Screen SPF50+ Hydrating Skinscreen
