Pre-Owned Picks: Rolex Or Grand Seiko? (2024)

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The Submariner has been the heart of Rolex since its debut in 1953. It was one of the first dive watches ever made and was not only marketed to divers but also to members of the military. This is the watch Ian Fleming picked for James Bond, before Sean Connery brought his personal Submariner to the set of Dr. No. It may not be the first dive watch, but it became so popular that any dive watch on the market will be compared to it. The Submariner may never have a peer when it comes to overall popularity.

Here you have a black timing bezel, lumed makers, and an overall style that will draw comparisons to the Submariner every time (but then again every dive watch will be compared to a Sub). What the Sports Spring Drive Diver SBGA229 (ok, Grand Seiko needs to work on the names) does give you is 72 hours of power reserve with more accuracy than any Rolex will achieve. The 44mm case is certainly a step up in size from the 40mm Submariner, but if you've decided to go a different path than the most popular dive watch, why not get something that has some wrist presence. I think the biggest selling point here is that this is a dive watch with an unusual in-house movement, finished to a standard not seen on many watches at any price level, for less than half the cost of the Rolex alternative.

The GMT-Master was not the first watch to track two time zones, but being released in 1954, it was early to the party. The popularity of this watch among pilots, celebrities, and world leaders quickly made the Rolex GMT the yardstick that all others were measured by. Nearly every color combination this watch has come in has a nickname attached to it, whether it be Batman, Pepsi, co*ke, or Root Beer. The black bezel version never really had one, despite being around since the mid-1960s. Discontinued a few years back, this model is the last time the black bezel was offered by Rolex.

The influence Rolex had over the GMT market is obvious here in the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 (again they really need to work on the names). A black ceramic bezel displaying the even hours and a long colored GMT hand are signatures of Rolex that can be seen here. What the Grand Seiko does differently is offer a smoother bezel free of the notches found on the GMT-Master, a design holdover from when you had to move the bezel to track the second time zone. Instead, the hour hand can jump independently, without stopping the watch, for a quick adjustment to your new time. The case has a mirror polish to the sides and forgoes a crown guard for a sleeker look than its more expensive competitor.

The OP is the OG. In 1931 Rolex debuted the Oyster Perpetual, a waterproof automatic winding watch. A daily wear watch that could stand up to daily use without the wearer having to remember to wind it. It's the entry point into the world of Rolex, so it has become the most common watch to see on wrists. In fact, if you asked a random person to describe what a nice wristwatch looks like, this is most likely what they are thinking of. Simple stick markers, squared off baton hands, and a simple case with no crown guards: The OP is simplicity done to perfection, proof that minimalism is sometimes the most beautiful choice.

This watch is the pure form of the Grand Seiko design principles. No fancy dial or distracting colors, not even much in the way of text. The mirror-polished markers and hands do not have any lume, but they are so reflective that they are easily read in a room with barely a light source. This finish continues onto the bezel, sides of the case, and beveling that transitions those sides to the lugs. This Grand Seiko matches the 124300 Oyster Perpetual with 100m of water resistance, but comes with a more accurate Spring Drive and a few more hours of power reserve.

Find the right Rolex or Grand Seiko to add to your collection, or maybe one of each, at the Hodinkee Shop.

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