MHCC | FAQ's about Card Grading (2024)

We are not an authorized grading service. If you consign with us, we will submit your cards to a grading company, upon request. Each of us at MHCC has over 20 years experience in the business and can objectively advise you of your best course of action. We always act in your best interest; what to grade, what not to grade, and how the material should be presented to generate the greatest possible result, because it’s in our best interest as well. Another great benefit is that the grading fees are deducted from the revenue once the sale is complete. You pay no up-front fees for grading. We do this as a service for our consignors free of charge and deduct only what the grading service charges. Most importantly, we save you the unwanted expense of grading cards that don’t increase your return, maximizing your bottom line. Contact our team of experts at (303) 840-2784

It’s the most common question we get. People call us all the time and say, “I’ve got some cards but I’m not ready to sell them because they aren’t graded yet.” Actually that’s a good thing; that means you haven’t potentially made a mistake yet either. Because the answer to the question, “Are My Cards Worth More Graded” isn’t that simple, and quite often, the answer is no.

Absolutely not! You should get cards graded ONLY if there is a strong possibility that the result will increase the value of the card, what hobbyists call “gradable” cards. Of course, all you need is money and any card can be graded, but only gradable cards are worth it. Grading is an expense, and you may actually end up with cards that sell for the same or even less than if they were sold ungraded. Just because the card is in a plastic slab with a numerical grade does not automatically increase its value. The key is to learn when a card is gradable and when it isn’t.

Example: 1960 Topps #326 Roberto Clemente - This is the most common situation; a typical star card with typically average wear, or maybe the corners are sharp but the centering is off. This card is not gradable because it won’t add to the value of the card. Maybe it grades a “4” and is worth around $45 or gets a “5,” which sells for around $70. The card would likely sell for around the same price ungraded, maybe more to a collector that likes this particular card’s presentation, and you wouldn’t be incurring the cost or time needed for grading. Now if the card was accurately centered with no blemishes and a very sharp perimeter, making it a candidate for a “7” ($175) an “8’ ($550), or even a “9” ($10,000), that would be a gradable card because it would increase the value well above what it would be ungraded. As you can see, the value tends to move exponentially with each grade increase when you get to the upper grades, but the more common mid-grades don’t increase at nearly the same rate.

Of course, there are exceptions. For many vintage cards of iconic stars like Ruth, Gehrig, and Cobb, it’s usually best to get the card graded regardless of condition, not as much for the numerical grade but to verify that it isn’t a reprint and hasn’t been trimmed or altered, which will increase buyer confidence and save you the headache of dealing with a disgruntled buyer down the road. And while many post-war “commons” aren’t gradable unless they reach the MINT level or higher, others are extremely gradable at NM condition because centering or print problems common to the issue limit the number of high grade examples. Sure, it’s confusing. The key is having an idea of what the card might grade and knowing the approximate value at various grade levels.

Everyone is new to the hobby at some point, but over time, you’ll learn what cards are gradable. A key aspect that makes a card gradable is condition. Familiarize yourself with the standards used in determining a given grade. Go to the grading websites, look at the samples and read about the specifications for each grade level. Then take a loupe and start examining graded cards … a lot of them! Carefully and objectively note the centering, surface quality, edge and corner wear and image registration compared to the grade. It takes time and practice, but as you gain experience, you’ll become more adept at assessing cards accurately. The better you become at grading, the better you’ll be at determining what is gradable and what isn’t. This will save you money in the long run.

Condition is very important, but the other key ingredient to deciding if cards are gradable is availability and market value. Quite often, a NM/MT card is worth hundreds, but just one grade lower and it’s only worth a few bucks. Like any other commodity, it’s all about supply and demand. And sure, you might have a “perfect” card that you think can “get a 10” but if there is little to no demand for it, does it really matter? Sites like eBay are a great resource for determining the value of cards currently up for sale as well as those realized in past sales. You’ll notice plenty of MINT and GEM MINT cards that sell for barely more than the cost of grading because there simply isn’t a demand or just too much of a supply. What’s the point of spending the money to grade a card if it doesn’t increase the value, even if you get the grade you’re looking for, which is certainly no guarantee?

OK, let’s say you’ve got a collection of ungraded cards that you’d like to sell and don’t have the time nor desire to become an expert in the field. That’s where we come in. As a premier auction house, we want what you want: to get the most money possible for your collection. Each of us at MHCC has over 20 years experience in the business and can objectively advise you of your best course of action. We always act in your best interest; what to grade, what not to grade, and how the material should be presented to generate the greatest possible result, because it’s in our best interest as well. Another great benefit is that the grading fees are deducted from the revenue once the sale is complete. You pay no up-front fees for grading. We do this as a service for our consignors free of charge and deduct only what the grading service charges. Most importantly, we save you the unwanted expense of grading cards that don’t increase your return, maximizing your bottom line. Contact our team of experts at (303) 840-2784.

MHCC | FAQ's about Card Grading (2024)

FAQs

What is the most strict card grading company? ›

PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator)

PSA's grading scale ranges from 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest grade, ensuring that collectors can easily assess the card's condition. Their extensive experience and strict grading standards have made PSA a trusted name in the industry.

How much value does a PSA 10 add to a card? ›

The scarcity of these cards in perfect condition, coupled with the high demand from fans and collectors, drives the value to astronomical levels. In some cases, the difference in value between a PSA 9 and a PSA 10 graded card can be tenfold or more.

Why did I get a PSA 6? ›

A PSA EX-MT 6 card may have visible surface wear or a printing defect which does not detract from its overall appeal. A very light scratch may be detected only upon close inspection. Corners may have slightly graduated fraying. Picture focus may be slightly out-of-register.

How do I know if my card is worth grading? ›

determining whether or not a card is worth grading requires careful consideration of multiple factors. Evaluating the rarity, condition, potential return on investment, rarity of graded cards, long-term perspective, and the reputation of the grading service are all vital aspects to weigh.

Who grades cards the hardest? ›

PSA is known for their tough grading standards and their registry which allows collectors to register their PSA graded baseball cards along with the grade.

Is Beckett or PSA better? ›

If the cards are primarily for collecting purposes and maintaining a high level of authenticity, Beckett's stricter grading standards may be preferred. On the other hand, if the focus is on resale value and market demand, PSA graded cards may be the better choice.

How hard is it to get PSA 10? ›

Achieving a PSA 10 requires impeccable centering, sharp corners, pristine edges, and flawless surfaces. Even the tiniest imperfection, such as a printing flaw or a minor scratch, can lead to a lower grade. These stringent grading standards contribute to the scarcity of PSA 10 cards.

What percentage of cards are PSA 9? ›

Only 560 or less than 5% of them have received a 10 versus about 4,000 or 33% of them receiving a 9. While there is a slight tolerance for centering of the card's front AND back, there are very small technical differences between a card graded 10 or 9. In most cases it boils down to eye appeal.

Is a PSA 8 worth more than raw? ›

Modern and Ultra Modern I usually price raw at equal or just a tick under PSA 9 prices. Most of the 80's the same but the early years a raw could be closer to a PSA 8. Anything before that it really depends on the player/card because some collectors will value crisp corners and surface over centering.

What is an alarming PSA number? ›

Decoding a PSA Test

In general: For men in their 40s and 50s: A PSA score greater than 2.5 ng/ml is considered abnormal. The median PSA for this age range is 0.6 to 0.7 ng/ml. For men in their 60s: A PSA score greater than 4.0 ng/ml is considered abnormal.

Is 7 a bad PSA number? ›

There is no specific normal or abnormal level of PSA in the blood. In the past, PSA levels of 4.0 ng/mL and lower were considered normal. However, some individuals with PSA levels below 4.0 ng/mL have prostate cancer and many with higher PSA levels between 4 and 10 ng/mL do not have prostate cancer (1).

How serious is a PSA of 7? ›

In general, it is accepted that a PSA level above 4.0 ng/mL is considered to be on the high end. The National Comprehensive Cancer Network outlines the current PSA results: Less than 1 ng/mL is considered benign. Men with increased risk should repeat testing at 2 to 4-year intervals.

Are base rookie cards worth anything? ›

Rookie cards are highly coveted by collectors and tend to be much more valuable than cards produced later in a player's career.

Why is card grading so expensive? ›

The investment in authentication and security adds to the overall cost of the grading process. Time and Labor: The process of grading trading cards is a time-consuming and labor-intensive task.

Will graded cards go up in value? ›

In the world of trading cards, a PSA 10 grade can have a significant impact on the value of a card. The rarity, popularity, market demand, and grading population all contribute to the increase in value that a PSA 10 grade brings.

Is SGC grading any good? ›

SGC uses a scale which eliminates the grades known as "tweeners": no grading scale is more accurate or consistent. Many industry experts agree that accurate grades mean more accurate prices for your trading cards!

What is the difference between PSA and BGS? ›

PSA has a Sports Market Report Price Guide, Auctions Prices Realized, and a comprehensive population report. BGS has an in-depth population report and a graded Card Lookup to help determine the value of a card. On occasion, a card receives a grade higher than its declared value.

Is CGC a good grading company? ›

Today, CGC is the world's largest and most trusted third-party grading service for comics, trading cards, video games, home video, magazines, concert posters and related collectibles with more than 15 million collectibles certified since 2000.

What is the best grading company for money? ›

The Collector's Choice for Banknote Grading

For collectors of banknotes, PMG provides an accurate, consistent and impartial assessment of authenticity and grade, backed by the comprehensive PMG Guarantee, which protects buyers and sellers.

Top Articles
Latest Posts
Article information

Author: Fredrick Kertzmann

Last Updated:

Views: 6321

Rating: 4.6 / 5 (66 voted)

Reviews: 89% of readers found this page helpful

Author information

Name: Fredrick Kertzmann

Birthday: 2000-04-29

Address: Apt. 203 613 Huels Gateway, Ralphtown, LA 40204

Phone: +2135150832870

Job: Regional Design Producer

Hobby: Nordic skating, Lacemaking, Mountain biking, Rowing, Gardening, Water sports, role-playing games

Introduction: My name is Fredrick Kertzmann, I am a gleaming, encouraging, inexpensive, thankful, tender, quaint, precious person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.