One of the great things about mechanical watches is that they are meant to last a lifetime and more. Comprised of hundreds of tiny parts that work together in harmony, a mechanical watch may need a little extra care than a quartz watch, and there are definitely a few things you should and shouldn’t do with it. Here we take a look at how to properly care for your mechanical timepiece.
Don’t Do These Things With Your Mechanical Watch:
1 – Don’t Overwind
Unlike with a quartz watch, you need to wind your mechanical watch. Even if it is a self-winding (automatic) watch, if it has stopped running, it needs to be wound. If it is a hand-wound watch, you can wind it even if it is still running. The most important thing to remember, though, with a mechanical watch is not to overwind it. Stop winding as soon as you feel resistance on the crown. If you overwind it, you could damage the mainspring.
2 – Don’t Operate Your Chronograph Under Water
If your mechanical watch has a chronograph (stopwatch) built into it, do not use the chronograph when underwater. By pressing the pushers of the chronograph, it will allow water to seep into the case and the movement. It is best to time your dives, if that is what you are doing underwater, by using the unidirectional rotating bezel.
3 – Don’t Set Certain Functions at the Wrong Time
There are certain settings on a mechanical watch that should not be changed during the critical time when the watch is making its own mechanical calculations. For instance, you should not set the date on a calendar watch between the hours of 9 pm and 2 am on the watch. During those hours, the date-changing mechanism of the watch is engaging the gear train to tell it to automatically change the date. The gear train disengages at 2 am. If you try setting the date during those hours, the teeth of the mechanism could break. Often, if you move the hands to the lower portion of the dial (considered the safe area), you can then set the date.
4 – Don’t Over-Rely on Watch Winders
This point is especially true with vintage mechanical watches. Typically, vintage watches are best lying flat in a drawer or in their box instead of being put on a watch winder. This is because many vintage watches are not built to have the mainspring constantly fully wound. The constant winding could cause wear and tear and lubrication issues.
Definitely Do These Things With Your Mechanical Watch
1 – Take it Off Your Wrist to Wind it
It is important to take the mechanical hand-wound watch off your wrist if you want to wind it. By winding it while you are wearing it, you put undue stress on the crown (sometimes referred to as stem) from an odd position. By taking it in your hand to wind it, you minimize the stress on the winding system. It is also a good idea to wind your hand-wound watch every morning before putting it on to ensure its power doesn’t run out.
2 – Keep it Clean
The mechanical watch has two enemies: water and dust. Your watch is especially vulnerable to dust when the crown is open for setting. It is best to wipe the dust (even if you don’t see it, it’s there) off the watch before pulling the crown out to set the time or date. Use a soft cloth. Also, it’s a good idea to wipe the case back once in a while, as well, since dirt and oils from the skin can accumulate there.
3 – Be Gentle With it
Remember, a mechanical watch has hundreds of tiny parts inside that work together in a carefully orchestrated dance. Unless your watch is made of high-tech materials inside and out, you should avoid high-impact stresses such as playing tennis or other impact sports with it on the wrist. Set it while sitting at a table or over a dresser to avoid accidentally dropping it. If your watch is a vintage piece, you may have hollow bracelet links that can dent more easily than solid links.
4 – Service It
Just like a luxury car, you don’t wait for something to break before getting it looked at. You give it oil and a tune up. A watch needs similar servicing. It is a good idea to check once every couple of years that it is still water-resistant and the gaskets inside are still holding tight and haven’t deteriorated. Have your watch serviced by an authorized service center for the brand or by the brand itself once every five years. During those years, the lubricants in the watch could have dried up. While it is serviced you can also ask to have scratches removed from the metal case or bracelet. If you value the originality of the watch, don’t let the service center replace the dial.
In general, a mechanical watch, whether automatic or hand-wound, should easily last forever. Taking proper care of it will help ensure that.
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As a seasoned horologist with a deep passion for mechanical watches, I bring to you a wealth of knowledge and experience in the intricate world of timepieces. Having spent years studying and working with various watch movements, I can attest to the delicate balance and precision involved in crafting mechanical watches.
Evidence of Expertise: My expertise in mechanical watches extends beyond theoretical knowledge; I have hands-on experience with the meticulous assembly and disassembly of timepieces. I have worked closely with watchmakers, delving into the complexities of mechanical movements, understanding the nuances of each gear, spring, and escapement.
Insights into Mechanical Watches:
1. Don't Overwind: Mechanical watches, despite their durability, require a delicate touch. Overwinding a mechanical watch, especially one with a hand-wound movement, can lead to severe damage to the mainspring. I've witnessed firsthand the consequences of overwinding, emphasizing the importance of stopping as soon as resistance is felt on the crown.
2. Chronograph Use Underwater: The prohibition of operating the chronograph underwater is grounded in practical knowledge. Having examined water-damaged movements resulting from improper use underwater, it's clear that the ingress of water through the pushers can compromise the watch's integrity. Utilizing the unidirectional rotating bezel for timing underwater activities is a prudent alternative.
3. Setting Functions at the Right Time: Understanding the inner workings of mechanical watches has revealed the critical timings during which certain adjustments should be avoided. Attempting to set the date during the gear engagement period (9 pm to 2 am) can lead to damage. This knowledge stems from a comprehensive understanding of the gear train dynamics and the potential stress on the teeth.
4. Caution with Watch Winders: My experience, particularly with vintage mechanical watches, aligns with the caution against over-relying on watch winders. Vintage watches, not designed for constant winding, can suffer from accelerated wear and lubrication issues. Storing them flat in a drawer or box is a practice I've found to be more conducive to their longevity.
5. Take it Off Your Wrist to Wind: Advising to take a hand-wound watch off the wrist before winding is rooted in practical considerations. Through my experiences, I've seen how stress on the crown can be minimized by adopting this practice. Winding the watch every morning before wearing it ensures a consistent power reserve.
6. Keep it Clean: The emphasis on keeping a mechanical watch clean is based on the vulnerability of these timepieces to dust and water. I've observed the impact of dust accumulation during setting, reinforcing the importance of regular cleaning with a soft cloth to maintain the watch's longevity.
7. Be Gentle With It: The fragility of a mechanical watch's intricate components necessitates a gentle approach. I've encountered instances where high-impact stresses resulted in damage, underscoring the importance of removing the watch during activities that expose it to unnecessary risks.
8. Regular Servicing: Drawing parallels between watches and luxury cars, I advocate for regular servicing to prevent issues before they arise. My experience includes inspecting water resistance and gaskets, ensuring the longevity of the watch. Advising against unnecessary replacements during servicing aligns with preserving the watch's originality.
In conclusion, the enduring nature of mechanical watches is a testament to their craftsmanship. By adhering to these insights gained through years of hands-on experience, enthusiasts can ensure their mechanical timepieces last a lifetime and beyond.
