Barrio Chino: meet the Chinese-Cubans fighting to keep their culture alive (2024)

Text by
Lulu Yao Gioiello

Photography by
Sean Alexander Geraghty

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Photographer Sean Alexander Geraghty shares stories from Havana’s Chinatown—once the largest in all of Latin America.

“A Chinatown without Chinese” is how most describe the neighborhood in Havana, Cuba known as Barrio Chino de La Havana—once home to thousands of Chinese men and their mixed-race families. Some might struggle to imagine a sprawling community of Chinese-Cubans. Yet in the late 1800s, there were as many as 120,000 Chinese men living and working in Cuba. Havana’s Chinatown was once the largest in all of Latin America.

This seemingly accidental migration has its roots, like much of American history, in enslavement. As early as 1857, at a time when African slavery was becoming less popular across Europe and the Americas, hundreds of thousands of Chinese workers were brought from China, Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan to work in the sugar fields. Many were told they were going to San Francisco; others believed they were coming to work for wages. Most ended up without pay: chained, beaten, and worked to death, much like their African predecessors and coworkers. Legally, Chinese were categorized as white and contracted to working periods of eight years. The social reality was closer to that of slavery. Many men were imprisoned if they did not renew their contracts, and Chinese women were forbidden from migrating to Cuba as a precaution to prevent the men from leaving a legacy or gaining political footing in the country. These legal and social restrictions created an unexpected union between the indentured Chinese men and enslaved African and Native Cuban women, where a man would purchase the freedom of a woman, and then marry and start a family with her.

Today, there are only 150 Chinese-born residents living in the Latin country, but somewhere around 114,000 Cubans with mixed Chinese heritage. Most do not speak Chinese and have never been to China, yet feel a strong connection to their Asian heritage. Twelve active Chinese societies in Havana are preserving what is left of Chinese culture. As the culture and history fade away, these descendants struggle to maintain the essence that is left behind. Photographer Sean Alexander Geraghty seeks to capture this unique migration through his photo series Barrio Chino. Capturing portraits and interviewing the residents still living in Chinatown, he aims to document the remaining fragments of this unique, multi-layered identity and question the notions of homeland.

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Barrio Chino: meet the Chinese-Cubans fighting to keep their culture alive (2024)

FAQs

What happened to the Chinese in Cuba? ›

Chinese Cubans, including some Chinese Americans from California, joined the Spanish–American War in 1898 to achieve independence from Spain, but a few Chinese, who were loyal to Spain, left Cuba and went to Spain. Racial acceptance and assimilation would come much later.

What happened to most Chinese immigrants to Cuba? ›

Although only about 150 native Chinese live in Cuba today, in the mid-1800s, there were more than 100,000, nearly all of them men. They were brought to Cuba as indentured laborers, enticed by worthless contracts that promised them freedom after eight years. Many died on sugar plantations not long after arriving.

How many Chinese Cubans are there? ›

The Cuban Chinese Today

It's estimated that Chinese Cubans (those who were born in China) only number about 400 today. Many are elderly residents who live near the run-down Barrio Chino. Some of their children and grandchildren still work in the shops and restaurants near Chinatown.

Why are there Chinese in Cuba? ›

Chinese indentured immigration to Cuba started in 1847, nearly four decades prior to the official abolition of African slavery in the island. The first indentured servants from China disembarked at the port of Regla from the ship Oquendo, one of the Cuban-owned vessels frequently used in the Middle Passage.

What is the relationship between China and Cuba? ›

China and Cuba have respect for each other's sovereign internal affairs and as a result experience good mutual relations such as being members of the Belt and Road Initiative for trade. China has partnered with Cuba to upgrade the rail network and other initiatives.

Can Chinese people go to Cuba? ›

This type of visa is extend 30 days at the hotel desk where the applicant is staying or before the immigration authorities. Underage applicants must have their tourist card even they are registered in the parents' passports. Cuba tourist visa is required for citizens of China.

What is the main reason why many Chinese immigrants came to the United States? ›

Chinese immigrants first flocked to the United States in the 1850s, eager to escape the economic chaos in China and to try their luck at the California gold rush. When the Gold Rush ended, Chinese Americans were considered cheap labor.

What are two reasons Chinese immigrants came to the US? ›

In the 1850s, Chinese workers migrated to the United States, first to work in the gold mines, but also to take agricultural jobs, and factory work, especially in the garment industry.

What happened when the Chinese immigrants came to America? ›

Chinese immigrants worked in very dangerous conditions. They were forced to work from sun up to sun down and sleep in tents in the middle of winter. They received low salaries, about $25-35 a month for 12 hours a day, and worked six days a week. They were discriminated since 1882 to 1943s.

What population of Cuba is white? ›

Genetics. An autosomal study from 2014 found the genetic ancestry in Cuba to be 72% European, 20% African and 8% Amerindian.

How many Cubans left? ›

Golden exile and Bay of Pigs Invasion

Before the post-revolution exile around 50,000 Cuban Americans already resided in the United States. Immediately after the 1959 Cuban Revolution around 200,000 Cubans came to South Florida.

Do Cubans have Chinese ancestry? ›

While today the official number of Chinese-born Cubans in Cuba has decreased to just below 150, the number of Chinese-descendants in Cuba may well number in the hundreds of thousands given the presence of large numbers of Chinese in early periods of Cuban history.

What is Cuba called now? ›

Cuba (/ˈkjuːbə/ ( listen) KEW-bə, Spanish: [ˈkuβa] ( listen); Lucumi: Erekusú), officially the Republic of Cuba (Spanish: República de Cuba [reˈpuβlika ðe ˈkuβa] ( listen)), is an island country comprising the island of Cuba, as well as Isla de la Juventud and several minor archipelagos.

How does China help Cuba? ›

China will continue to firmly support Cuba in safeguarding national sovereignty and opposing foreign interference and blockade. China is ready to work with Cuba on the implementation of the Global Development Initiative (GDI) and the Global Security Initiative (GSI) to jointly promote world peace and development.

Why does the US not go to Cuba? ›

The U.S. government state department placed an embargo on trade between Cuba and the United States of America in 1962. Until this day, it makes travel to Cuba harder than you might think, but not impossible.

How many Chinese migrated to Cuba? ›

Around 125,000 Chinese arrived in Cuba from 1847 to 1874, the period of the “coolie trade.” Over 90,000 Chinese arrived in Peru under similarly onerous indentured labor contracts from 1849 to 1874.

What country is Cuba allies with? ›

Currently, Cuba has diplomatically friendly relationships with Presidents Nicolás Maduro of Venezuela and Daniel Ortega of Nicaragua, with Maduro as perhaps the country's staunchest ally in the post-Soviet era.

Do the US and Cuba get along? ›

Cuba and the United States restored diplomatic relations on July 20, 2015, after relations had been severed in 1961 during the Cold War.

Can I go to USA if I have been to Cuba? ›

Travelling to the USA from Cuba

If you have visited Cuba and departed before 1 January 2021, you are usually still eligible to apply for an ESTA and travel to the USA under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP). Contact the nearest US Embassy or Consulate if you have any further questions or concerns.

Is it still illegal to go to Cuba? ›

Can you travel to Cuba with an American passport? Yes!

Can citizens leave Cuba? ›

As of January 14, 2013, all Cuban government-imposed travel restrictions and controls have been abolished. Since that date, any Cuban citizen, with a valid passport, can leave the country at will, without let or hindrance from the Cuban authorities.

How many Americans live in China? ›

An estimate published in 2018 counted 600,000 people of other nations living in China, with 12% of those from the US; that means approximately 72,000 Americans living in China.

Can Chinese citizens move to the US? ›

To apply for an immigrant visa, a foreign citizen seeking to immigrate generally must be sponsored by a U.S. citizen or Lawful Permanent Resident immediate relative(s), or prospective U.S. employer, and have an approved petition before applying for an immigrant visa.

Where do most Chinese live in USA? ›

New York City is home to the largest Chinese-American population of any city proper, with over half a million.

What problems did the Chinese immigrants face in the United States? ›

Even as they struggled to find work, Chinese immigrants were also fighting for their lives. During their first few decades in the United States, they endured an epidemic of violent racist attacks, a campaign of persecution and murder that today seems shocking.

Why did the Chinese leave China? ›

In the mid-to-late 19th century, there were two main types of Chinese migration: Flight migration, driven by the need to escape unsafe conditions, such as war, disease, natural disasters, poor governance, or persecution because of one's race, religion, or political beliefs; and.

Which event helped increase Chinese immigration to the United States? ›

The outbreak of the Second World War brought Chinese immigrants and their descendants even further into the mainstream of U.S. society.

How were the Chinese immigrants treated during the Gold Rush? ›

In 1852, California placed a high monthly tax on all foreign miners. Chinese miners had no choice but to pay this tax if they wanted to mine for gold in California. Chinese workers were also the targets of violent attacks in the mining camps. The legal system offered little protection.

How did the Chinese Exclusion Act affect America today? ›

The Chinese Exclusion Act created a trickle-down impact on American history. It meant fewer people, less tax revenue, fewer citizens to fight or work during wartime and fewer perspectives and viewpoints, narrowing public opinion and shrinking the nation's ability to make good decisions.

What was the Chinese immigration rate dramatically during the late 1800s? ›

Chinese immigration continued at a steady rate during the 1860s and 1870s. All told, 322,000 Chinese people entered the United States between 1850 and 1882, when the Chinese Exclusion law was passed.

What language do Cubans speak? ›

The official language of Cuba is Spanish or Cuban Spanish, a form of Caribbean Spanish , that the vast majority of Cubans speak.

What percent of Cuba is male or female? ›

The Sex Ratio in Cuba in 2021 is 98.57 males per 100 females.

What percent of Cubans are homeless? ›

Cuba has a near-zero homelessness rate. This is due in part to the fact that rent in state built housing is capped at 10% of family income. The average lifespan in Cuba is higher than that of the US and they have a lower rate of infant and maternal mortality as well.

Which U.S. city has the most Cubans? ›

Greater Miami has by far the highest concentration of Cuban Americans of any metropolitan area, followed by New York City; Tampa, Florida; Union County and North Hudson, New Jersey areas, particularly Union City, Elizabeth, West New York, Houston, Texas, and Chicago, Illinois.

How many Russians live in Cuba? ›

Around 55,000 people of Russian descent live in Cuba.

What DNA do Cubans have? ›

There are estimates that up to 1% of Cuban DNA is Chinese. Although the veracity of these census records cannot be adequately evaluated, in actuality, the most recent estimates places Cubans as 37% white, 51% mixed race, 11% black, and 1% Asian.

Are Cubans related to Native Americans? ›

As elsewhere, the discussion of indigeneity is impacted by new genetic studies, which for Cuba reveal that 34.5 percent of the general population is inheritor of Native-American mitochondrial DNA. The highest levels are found in the eastern region of Cuba: Holguín (59 percent) and Las Tunas (58 percent).

Are Cubans African descendants? ›

Cubans themselves are, as recent DNA studies prove, partially Africans. But Cuba's expression of African culture evolved primarily as a mechanism of existential survival and adaptation for the African men and women that experienced slavery, dehumanization, and racism on the island for 350 years.

What part of Cuba does the US still own? ›

The United States assumed territorial control over the southern portion of Guantánamo Bay under the 1903 Lease. The United States exercises jurisdiction and control over this territory, while recognizing that Cuba retains ultimate sovereignty.

Are Cubans Hispanic? ›

About Hispanic Origin

OMB defines "Hispanic or Latino" as a person of Cuban, Mexican, Puerto Rican, South or Central American, or other Spanish culture or origin regardless of race.

What are 3 things Cuba is known for? ›

Cuba is known for producing high-quality cigars, rum, and coffee, and is home to classy, vintage cars. It is also known for its beautiful beaches, lush forests, and interesting cities. Cuba also witnessed several significant historical conflicts and events that make the country what it is today.

Why did Chinese people go to Cuba? ›

Chinese immigration to Cuba started in 1837 when Chinese (Cantonese and Hakka) contract workers were brought to work in the sugar fields, bringing the religion of Buddhism with them.

How did Chinese people get to Cuba? ›

Chinese indentured immigration to Cuba started in 1847, nearly four decades prior to the official abolition of African slavery in the island. The first indentured servants from China disembarked at the port of Regla from the ship Oquendo, one of the Cuban-owned vessels frequently used in the Middle Passage.

Is it safe to go to Cuba right now? ›

Exercise increased caution in Cuba due to crime. Country Summary: Petty crime is a threat for tourists in Cuba. Also, violent crime, including armed robbery, homicide, and sexual assault, sometimes occurs in Cuba.

Do many Americans live in Cuba? ›

Americans in Cuba (Spanish: Estadounidenses en Cuba) consist of expatriates and immigrants from the United States as well as Cubans of American descent. As of September 1998, there are about 2,000 to 3,000 Americans living in Cuba.

Why does Cuba have old cars? ›

American cars were imported into Cuba for about 50 years, beginning near the early 20th century. After the Cuban Revolution, the U.S. embargo was erected and Castro banned the importation of American cars and mechanical parts. That's why Cuba is the way it is today—essentially a living museum for classic cars.

Is China building a spy base in Cuba? ›

A Chinese spy base in Cuba that could intercept electronic signals from nearby U.S. military and commercial buildings has been up and running since or before 2019, when the Chinese base was upgraded, according to a Biden administration official.

What ended slavery in Cuba? ›

The Ten Years' War, Spain's own convulsions, and British-American threats further confused matters. Very slowly, the Moret law passed by the Spanish Cortes in 1870 for qualified emancipation came to be enforced. An act of 1879 speeded the process, and by 1886 slavery in Cuba supposedly ended.

What caused Cuba to collapse? ›

Food Shortages

The primary cause of this was the collapse of the Soviet Union, who exported large quantities of cheap food to Cuba. In the absence of such food imports, food prices in Cuba increased, while government-run institutions began offering less food, and food of lower quality.

What country did China invade during Cuban missile crisis? ›

JFK's forgotten crisis: Remember when China invaded India in the middle of the Cuban Missile Crisis?

Does the US have a military base on Cuba? ›

As of May 2023, 30 detainees remain at Guantanamo Bay.

Does US have a base in Cuba? ›

Naval Station Guantanamo Bay is the forward, ready, and irreplaceable U.S. sea power platform in the Caribbean.

Does China have military in Cuba? ›

China has been operating military and intelligence facilities in Cuba since at least 2019 and is continuing to expand its intelligence gathering capabilities around the world, a Biden administration official and two other sources told CNN Saturday.

When did Cuba get slavery? ›

Slavery in Cuba was a portion of the larger Atlantic Slave Trade that primarily supported Spanish plantation owners engaged in the sugarcane trade. It was practised on the island of Cuba from the 16th century until it was abolished by Spanish royal decree on October 7, 1886.

When did Cuba make slavery illegal? ›

Cuba participated heavily in the slave trade to obtain cheap labor for the sugar plantations beginning in the 16th century. Cuba stopped officially participating in the slave trade in 1867 but the institution of slavery was not abolished on the island until 1886.

How many slaves did Cuba have? ›

About 800,000 slaves were imported to Cuba—twice as many as those shipped to the United States.

Why is Cuba so special? ›

Cuba's sensual and contagious rhythms have influenced musicians the world over, its cigars are legendary and the exotic co*cktails are to die for. Cuba, with its mix of Spanish and African roots, is the largest, least commercialized, and most exciting island in the Caribbean.

Is Cuba still a communist country? ›

Cuba is one of a few extant Marxist–Leninist one-party socialist states, in which the role of the vanguard Communist Party is enshrined in the Constitution. Cuba has an authoritarian regime where political opposition is not permitted.

How much money did Russia give to Cuba? ›

The talks included $20 million worth of credit to Havana, and 25,000 tons of grain as humanitarian aid to Cuba.

Did the US win the Cuban missile crisis? ›

The next morning, October 28, Khrushchev issued a public statement that Soviet missiles would be dismantled and removed from Cuba. The crisis was over but the naval quarantine continued until the Soviets agreed to remove their IL–28 bombers from Cuba and, on November 20, 1962, the United States ended its quarantine.

Who saved the Cuban missile crisis? ›

And the person who likely did more than anyone else to prevent that dangerous day from becoming an existential catastrophe was a quiet Soviet naval officer named Vasili Arkhipov. On that day, Arkhipov was serving aboard the nuclear-armed Soviet submarine B-59 in international waters near Cuba.

Who won and lost the Cuban missile crisis? ›

Although Kennedy had the option of launching air strikes against the missile construction sites, he decided to come into terms with Khrushchev that would see the Soviets remove the missiles in exchange that the U.S. would not invade the Island. Unmistakably, the U.S. won by giving in to Khrushchev's demands.

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